# From Overheat?



## Marcuz

I think it is about 3 times on different days. I was playing game about 2 or 3 hours, then my game started frozen with weird graphic looks like mess up my monitor, but it is not. I turned off my PC and everything is ok. Why is that happened to me? Do you think it is from overheat? But, I bought a PCI fan, it should be cool with my video card. Does anyone have any of suggestion for me?


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## hermeslyre

Overheating components can cause the the symptoms you describe, sure. Make sure the case is well ventilated, air pathways are not overly cluttered, case fans and HS/f's are free of dust and junk, as well as properly installed/working. If problems persist extra cooling might be considered, aftermarket fans/heatsinks, reapplication of thermal paste to processing units including the GPU, being the best economical options.


You can point a house fan toward an open case as a quick easy fix.. it's annoying though.


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## oregon

This happens to me when I overclock. It is not a heat issue for me... my card always stays below 75. It seems to be pretty random too. Some games are fine, some crash pretty consistently when I overclock. 

To test if your problem is overheating, get something like rivaTuner and use the monitor feature in it.


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## Itronix

This use to happen to me, before I got my 8800GT. My northbirdge was overheating. I'm not sure if this will apply to you, because you have a card, but sometimes the northbridge has to work hard with the card.


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## Marcuz

I don't know how to use rivaTuner. If you show me step by step how to do it?


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## Marcuz

Itronix said:


> This use to happen to me, before I got my 8800GT. My northbirdge was overheating. I'm not sure if this will apply to you, because you have a card, but sometimes the northbridge has to work hard with the card.


Are you saying my video card get hot close to northbridge? That why northbridge overheat?


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## Itronix

Not necessarily, the NB has to work along with the gpu. I'm not as experienced as these guys around here, so it's hard for me to explain (I forgot how), but what you are describing use to happen to me all the time, until I bought a NB cooler with a fan.

Oh yeah, I just refreshed my memory with google! The NB handles the data transfer from the ram, cpu, and gpu. The more powerful cpu and gpu you have, along with the more ram you have, the NB has to run harder. 8gb ram, an E4500, and a 3870X2............ the NB could very well be overheating. What motherboard does that have? What's the NB chipset?

http://images.tigerdirect.com/skuimages/large/P450-9102-main2.jpg

Is your board like that? Are those chipset coolers still functioning?


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## Marcuz

My Motherboard is this. I wonder how I check temperature of NB?


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## Itronix

Give ntune a try:

http://www.nvidia.com/object/ntune_5.05.54.00.html

That's Nvidia's monitoring system. I'm not sure if it'll monitor your 3870X2, but it should still at least monitor your NB. Just instal it, open the app., let it start, and click the little arrow at the bottom right-hand corner. You will see a graph, and two readings above it, one for your chipsed and GPU.


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## Marcuz

I don't see nForce Temeratures and I only see CPU and system tempertures.


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## Itronix

Hmmmmm......... I'm not sure. Let me find another......


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## Itronix

I'm not sure of any others. Maybe someone could suggest one?


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## Marcuz

Anyone please help me to solve this problem?


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## Marcuz

Ok, first I have 2.2Ghz E4500, 8600 GT 256MB, and 1GB ram. So, I played game "Sword of the New World." I have been playing that game all day mostly and it got no frozen on my computer. Second, I upgraded my computer 2.2Ghz E4500, ATI All In Wonder 800XT 256MB, and 8GB ram. I played that same game all day mostly and it got no frozen on my computer. Third, I bought a new GPU HD3870 2X 1GB, 2.2Ghz E4500, and 8GB ram. I played that same game in about 4-5 hours and it got frozen on my computer, but it cool off my GPU 60% 40-50C. I guess it was northbridge which is overheat, but I can't find temperatures of northbridge. Does anyone please help me?


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## Okedokey

WHat PSU do you have?


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## Marcuz

I have this


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## Okedokey

What is the max output on the 12V rail, becuase i am sure you are aware, you cannot simply add the 12V rails together.  Can you look at the sticker on it and tell me what the 12V rail combined output wattage is?


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## Marcuz

here


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## Okedokey

Download speed fan from my sig, and record the 12V rail voltages during load for me.  This will give me a better idea of how the psu is handling the 3870X2.  I've seen many other cases (on another forum) where the X2 requires a very powerful psu due to the 12V rail being overloaded.  As much as your psu looks like it should be sufficient with multiple rails, you sometimes get power 'trapped' in the rails, rather than it being delivered.  Can you try another psu, preferably with a single rail?

Post speed fan results and look into borrowing a better psu, such as the corsair 620w etc


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## Kill Bill

If your using a tower I usually (actually always have) a external usb laptop fan  at the bottom then leave one screw out of the case so I can take the cable out and I stick it into a usb slot got me 28c down


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## Okedokey

speed fan, voltages, and gpu temps please.


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## The Good Guy

download pc wizard and moniter the temps.


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## ellanky

Like other peeps said, it could be from overclocking..
try resetting all your BIOS settings to default, if not it could be from heat.. :/


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## Okedokey

can we just see the temps and voltages pls, this is a very common symptom of under power.


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## Marcuz

ellanky said:


> Like other peeps said, it could be from overclocking..
> try resetting all your BIOS settings to default, if not it could be from heat.. :/


I didnt OC at all.




bigfellla said:


> can we just see the temps and voltages pls, this is a very common symptom of under power.


Here
PC Wizard 08
NVIDIA Monitor
HWMonitor


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## mep916

Itronix said:


> Give ntune a try:


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## Okedokey

Ok, although not 100% conclusive, both progammes showed a significant drop in the 12V rail voltage.  One was less than 10V and the other was close.  That is outside the ATX standard and when a gpu has low voltage it stesses components causing heat.  I would definately now recommend upgrading your PSU to a single rail quality unit such as the Corsair 620W / 750W.  You can look at other units in my _*Power Supply Info *_link in my sig if you wish.

If you wanted 100% conclusive approach, get a multimeter and test the 12V rail during load (e.g. 3DMark06), but trust me mate, that PSU is not up to it.

A low powered PSU definatley will cause overheat issues, so don't think this is a peripheral problem.


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## oscaryu1

bigfellla said:


> Ok, although not 100% conclusive, both progammes showed a significant drop in the 12V rail voltage.  One was less than 10V and the other was close.  That is outside the ATX standard and when a gpu has low voltage it stesses components causing heat.  I would definately now recommend upgrading your PSU to a single rail quality unit such as the Corsair 620W / 750W.  You can look at other units in my _*Power Supply Info *_link in my sig if you wish.
> 
> If you wanted 100% conclusive approach, get a multimeter and test the 12V rail during load (e.g. 3DMark06), but trust me mate, that PSU is not up to it.
> 
> A low powered PSU definatley will cause overheat issues, so don't think this is a peripheral problem.



A unsufficient power supply will cause heat issues, yes, but with the PSU only. You will notice a increase in case temperature as the PSU starts to get overloaded.

You can test this by download ATITool, and scanning for artifacts.

And to answer any other questions, the computer would crash or just shut down when the PSU's can't give power anymore.


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## Okedokey

pff that's rubbish, what education do you base that assessment on?  btw, unsufficient isn't a word - it's insufficient.  You have been ridiculed and booted out of tech support fourm (www.techsupportforurm.com) already , are you trying for two out of two?

There are many ocassions where a psu that is underpowered causes a gpu to overheat.

Regardless, the 12V rail is out of spec.  This will cause a the gpu to overheat due to lack of power.


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## oscaryu1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170014

I'm running that ^ PSU with this card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127294

And a Celeron 420, 1.6GHz OC'd to 2.1GHz...

DVD Burner, a case fan, 2GB of memory...

And seeing that I played BF2, and BF2142 well with no artifacting or overheating...

And take in mind, a $15 PSU with a crappy manufacturer...



> there are many ocassions where a psu that is underpowered causes a gpu to overheat.



I believe that 





> thats rubbish.



...without any proof.


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## Okedokey

please...

You are reducing the intelligence of this forum.  Let’s keep to the topic.  He has a 12V rail out of spec.  That’s a fact.  As you agree it can cause overheating, so why does your noob hardware have anything to do with it?

Marcuz, please borrow or buy a new quality psu.  That will solve the problem.


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## oscaryu1

bigfellla said:


> please...
> 
> You are reducing the intelligence of this forum.  Let’s keep to the topic.  He has a 12V rail out of spec.  That’s a fact.  As you agree it can cause overheating, so why does your noob hardware have anything to do with it?
> 
> Marcuz, please borrow or buy a new quality psu.  That will solve the problem.



The PSU is FINE! What do you not get?! Yes, they don't add together, but they still go to the motherboard, just not as one! The power supply is plenty sufficient for Pete's sake! Go ask anyone on this forum!


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## oscaryu1

http://educations.newegg.com/tool/psucalc/index.html

CPU - Core 2 Duo

Mobo - High End mobo

Memory - DDR2 2GB x4

ODD - DVD-RW

HDD - 10k RPM 3.5"

Recommendation: 409W...

Hmm... I think 750W is enough.


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## mep916

Marcuz, do not spend any money on a new PSU. Bigfella hasn't proven that it needs replacement. A number of things could be causing your problem, but I doubt it's the power supply.


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## Okedokey

The 12V rail is OUT OF SPEC.  PERIOD.  Unless you guys have a multimeter and are willing to go to his house and test it, then i think speedfan showing 10V or less, and PC Wizard showing the same is good proof.  ATX standard says +/-5% or 10% under load.  This is well and truly out of spec and the likely cause of heat.

Do what you want.  The PSU needs replacing, it is not about watts, its about what the 12V rail can provide in amps..

Marcuz, if you have any sense, borrow a PSU (quality) with a good single 26A or great 12V rail and test.  If you want further help along this idea, pm me.


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## oscaryu1

bigfellla said:


> The 12V rail is OUT OF SPEC.  PERIOD.  Unless you guys have a multimeter and are willing to go to his house and test it, then i think speedfan showing 10V or less, and PC Wizard showing the same is good proof.  ATX standard says +/-5% or 10% under load.  This is well and truly out of spec and the likely cause of heat.
> 
> Do what you want.  The PSU needs replacing, it is not about watts, its about what the 12V rail can provide in amps..
> 
> Marcuz, if you have any sense, borrow a PSU (quality) with a good single 26A or great 12V rail and test.  If you want further help along this idea, pm me.



Then explain my miracle of a sig. I have 19/20 on my 2 rails. 25A minimum, 30A recommended on the HD3850.


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## Okedokey

bigfellla said:


> The 12V rail is OUT OF SPEC.  PERIOD.  Unless you guys have a multimeter and are willing to go to his house and test it, then i think speedfan showing 10V or less, and PC Wizard showing the same is good proof.  ATX standard says +/-5% or 10% under load.  This is well and truly out of spec and the likely cause of heat.
> 
> Do what you want.  The PSU needs replacing, it is not about watts, its about what the 12V rail can provide in amps..
> 
> Marcuz, if you have any sense, borrow a PSU (quality) with a good single 26A or great 12V rail and test.  If you want further help along this idea, pm me.



argue what you want.


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## hermeslyre

The +12 rail is fluctuated quite abit more than recommended. 

It wouldn't hurt to try another PSU, if one is handy (when is this ever the case though T.T). I'm not altogether convinced however. Last build I had a piece of shit unit, rail output was all over the place, most the time worse than OP's. Yet I never saw a single problem, heat or performance wise. Well, till it blew up.


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## ceewi1

> pff that's rubbish, what education do you base that assessment on? btw, unsufficient isn't a word - it's insufficient. You have been ridiculed and booted out of tech support fourm (www.techsupportforurm.com) already , are you trying for two out of two?


Your spelling is not impeccable either.  oscaryu1 is a VIP Member here, which is earned by demonstrating maturity and ability/willingness to help.  Whatever issues you two have from other forums please don't bring them here.



bigfellla said:


> Ok, although not 100% conclusive, both progammes showed a significant drop in the 12V rail voltage.  One was less than 10V and the other was close.  That is outside the ATX standard and when a gpu has low voltage it stesses components causing heat.  I would definately now recommend upgrading your PSU *to a single rail quality unit such as the Corsair 620W / 750W*.  You can look at other units in my _*Power Supply Info *_link in my sig if you wish.





> Marcuz, if you have any sense, borrow a PSU (quality) *with a good single 26A* or great 12V rail and test.  If you want further help along this idea, pm me.


While it's possible for any individual rail to be overloaded in a multi-rail PSU, that is not the case here.  If an individual rail is overloaded it trips OCP and the system shuts down immediately, it does not cause freezing or stability problems.



> Regardless, the 12V rail is out of spec.  This will cause a the gpu to overheat due to lack of power.





> If you wanted 100% conclusive approach, get a multimeter and test the 12V rail during load (e.g. 3DMark06)


That's going to be about the only way to confirm it.  Software measurements are notoriously unreliable, and I sincerely doubt that these are accurate.  If the +12V rail was really reading at 9.87V at what appears to be an idle measurement, he'd almost certainly be experiencing more serious problems than freezing after several hours of heavy gaming.



> A low powered PSU definatley will cause overheat issues, so don't think this is a peripheral problem.


Nonetheless the provided temperatures are fine.  Perhaps a reading under load would clarify things a little.



oscaryu1 said:


> And to answer any other questions, the computer would crash or just shut down when the PSU's can't give power anymore.


Don't count on it 



oscaryu1 said:


> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170014
> 
> I'm running that ^ PSU with this card:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127294
> 
> And a Celeron 420, 1.6GHz OC'd to 2.1GHz...
> 
> DVD Burner, a case fan, 2GB of memory...
> 
> And seeing that I played BF2, and BF2142 well with no artifacting or overheating...
> 
> And take in mind, a $15 PSU with a crappy manufacturer...


To be fair, a HD 3850 is in a whole different category with regards to power consumption than a 3870X2 and even with your system, I'd be a little worried about the long term implications of that, but the point is correct - the PSU in questions is quite sufficient for that system.



> Do what you want. The PSU needs replacing, it is not about watts, its about what the 12V rail can provide in amps..


That PSU is rated for +12V@50A.  That's ample power for the system in question, and as I've already said, this isn't a single rail vs multi rail issue.  I'm certainly not ruling out a defective PSU, but there's no need for a more powerful one.

The voltage readings are of concern, and certainly merit further investigation.  I would be interested to see what the BIOS reading is, but using a multimeter to check the rails is the only way to be sure, unless you can borrow another PSU for testing purposes.


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## Marcuz

What is the reason why I have that? What do I have to do? Buy a new PSU? If need new PSU' please link here (only on newegg). Thank you for helping me.


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## Okedokey

Hello Marcuz and ceewi1

Firstly, I would like to apologise to oscaryu1, the administrators of this forum for my conduct, not my most proud posts to date.  I still standby the intent of what I said, however I will say it in PM, or at least more constructively next time.

Anyway, ceewi41 thank you for your intelligent approach.  You are correct in many ways; however here is my concerns/thinking.

When a PSU has multiple 12v rails you combine them to get a rough idea of the total available amps on the 12v rail, but it's not always a real accurate indicator of the 12v amp rating nor its suitability for the given task (e.g. HD3870X2).  Most multi rail PSUs are actually fed from a single 12V source and split into smaller rated rails. Using the Alienware 750w as an example: It has four 18A +12v rails and a 16A rail that are fed by a single rail. I know what you're thinking... (3x18A)+ (1x16A) =70A. Well it doesn't quite work that way. 

To determine the actual amp rating of the 12v rail you have to divide the total wattage available for the combined 12v rails (which is why I asked this question) by 12V. (Watts / Volts=Amps).  But that’s not all that concerns me.  The following is key imho.

Now the problem with multiple-rail PSU's (thus my suggestions to get a powerful single rail - and why most manufactures are moving away from them) is this.  A large, single 12V rail (without a 240VA limit) can transfer 100% of the 12V output from the PSU to the computer, while a multi-rail 12V design has distribution losses of up to 30% of the power supply's rating. Those losses occur because power literally gets "trapped" on under-utilised rails. For example, if the 12V rail that powers the CPU is rated for 18A and the CPU only uses 7A, the remaining 11A is unusable, since it is isolated from the rest of the system.

Since the maximum current from any one 12V rail of a multiple-rail PSU is limited to 20A (240VA / 12 volts = 20 amps), PCs with high-performance components that draw over 20 amps from the same rail are subject to over-current shutdowns. With power requirements for multiple processors and graphics cards continuing to grow, the multiple-rail design, with its 240VA limit per rail, is basically obsolete.  I guess my point here is that although this is not about over-current shut-downs, that PSU is bad quality imho, has low powered 12V rails and (at least anecdotally) the 12V rail seems to droop (I agree with your view about software monitoring of 12V not being accurate).  This can (as you know) stress components causing excessive heat production.

Marcuz as I said in post 31, I think this is what you will need to do, test the PSU under load with a multimeter (cheap to buy), or borrow another quality PSU.  I do feel that your issues will be resolved by getting a new quality (preferably single rail) PSU.  I cannot be sure, because we need better information (i.e. measured voltages during load e.g. 3DMark06).  I would suggest borrowing one from a friend if possible.


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## Marcuz

Would you give me a link what would I have to buy? I don't have a geek friend whoever know a lot about computer that I can borrow.

By the way, I forgot to let you know I am not sure if cause problem from PSU and video card, there is 2 plugs pin on video card, one is 6 pin other is 8 pin, so I plug in 6 pin to 6 pin other one is plug 6 pin to 8 pin. Do you think that is because cause the problem?


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## Okedokey

I can, but what i would prefer you to test first.  If you cannot, look at the PSU Info link in my sig, there you will find several psu's in different categories, with links.  I would suggest the TX750W from Corsair, because it has a single 60A 12V rail, and also becuase i have it and know it.  It also has a 5 year warranty.  But as i said, test first, but if not, look at the info in the link.


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## Marcuz

I am confused, but I am trying to learn about this. As I said, I am "noob." What do I have test first? I am sorry to make you waste your time to type a lot here, but I appreciate it. Thank you.


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## Okedokey

No you are fine.   In order to be 100% sure about the psu failing, you really either need to test the 12V rail will a multimeter to check it is reading withing 12V +/-5% normally, and 12V +/-10% under load, so that you can confirm that the PSU is providing the correct output.  The alternative is to borrow a powerful, quality psu, which also will make sure that the required output is being met.  

If you cannot do this, _then there is an element of risk_, that if you replace the PSU, it will not change anything, but i am pretty confident that this will not be the case.

The alienware website refers to your pc as having a "standard" psu, which isn't quite as specific as having a ATX PSU, which is a standard, specifying the outputs (as above) and the size etc.  So in summary I would:

1. Purchase a multimeter (can be got cheap ie, 15 euro http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=25414&doy=4m4)

2. Test the PSU as shown here http://www.driverheaven.net/guides/testingPSU/ under load (ie when 3DMark06 is running) - please be careful! .

*OR*

3. Borrow a quliaty single rail PSU 600W or greater.

*If you find that in 2, the voltage on the 12V rail is less than 11.4V or 10.8 (under load) OR that a borrowed PSU (in 3) resolves the issue*:

4. Confirm with Alienware that your case will fit a _standard ATX PSU _and then get a new PSU such as:

    a. PC Power & Cooling 750 Watt: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256017
    b. Corsair TX750W : http://www.corsair.com/products/tx.aspx


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## Marcuz

Is this fine with that? or this?


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## Okedokey

The first one is fine mate. Do you know how to use it? If not, look here: http://www.ladyada.net/learn/metertut/voltage.html

Connect the multimeter to your system while it is powered down, for safety, and touch the chassis, to remove any static from your body beforehand. Then power it up, but make sure you have the multimeter set to DC in the right range (probably 20V DC). Then power up the computer, and fire up 3DMark06. Monitor the voltages. You really don't want it to go below 11.4, and definitely not below 11. Also monitor it during games and when idle and using prime95 here: http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=103.

Good luck, and let me know how you go, just follow the link about testing a PSU above (post 45), and you should be right.

Then can you take a photo of the inside of your case please, several if needed, to show the input and output (exhaust) fans and wiring.

Then post:

1. Voltages (max and min) during idle (just with desktop showing).
2. Voltages (max and min) during 3DMark06 running at the resolution you play your games at.
3. Voltages (max and min) during Prime95 running for 30 minutes.
4. Temperatures for the GPU and CPU during the above.
3. Pictures of your case (inside).
4. Confirm with Alienware your case will accommodate a standard ATX PSU.

cheers.


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## Marcuz

My case inside pictures are here 

1.Case
2.Case
3.Case

My multimeter pictures are here 

1. Multimeter
2. Multimeter

If you have AIM, then you can look up at my profile and my AIM screen name is there, so it would be more easier to talk better and fast than this forum.


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## Okedokey

I don't actually, just keep it in the post, that way everyone can chip in with advice if needed.  Good pics, i was looking for airflow issues and dust, but that pc shouldn't overheat, nor does the temps you measured before indicate that it does.  I am very confident about a new PSU being required here.  Follow the rest of the instructions and post back.


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## Marcuz

Want me test on 20-pin motherboard plug or molex?

Ok I did test it here is: 

Before without the game
1.Red= 507
2.Orange= 3.36
3.Yellow= 11.98

After with the game
1.Red= 5.06
2.Orange= 3.35
3.Yellow= 11.94

On Molex
1.Yellow 11.99~12.00

PRIME95 test here:
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU     E4500  @ 2.20GHz
CPU speed: 2200.03 MHz
CPU features: RDTSC, CMOV, Prefetch, MMX, SSE, SSE2
L1 cache size: 32 KB
L2 cache size: 2048 KB
L1 cache line size: 64 bytes
L2 cache line size: 64 bytes
Prime95 32-bit version 24.14, RdtscTiming=1
Best time for 512K FFT length: 12.007 ms.
Best time for 640K FFT length: 15.946 ms.
Best time for 768K FFT length: 19.617 ms.
Best time for 896K FFT length: 23.356 ms.
Best time for 1024K FFT length: 26.891 ms.
Best time for 1280K FFT length: 33.031 ms.
Best time for 1536K FFT length: 40.287 ms.
Best time for 1792K FFT length: 48.352 ms.
Best time for 2048K FFT length: 53.501 ms.
Best time for 2560K FFT length: 70.007 ms.
Best time for 3072K FFT length: 87.669 ms.
Best time for 3584K FFT length: 104.421 ms.
Best time for 4096K FFT length: 123.599 ms.
Best time for 58 bit trial factors: 5.187 ms.
Best time for 59 bit trial factors: 5.078 ms.
Best time for 60 bit trial factors: 5.204 ms.
Best time for 61 bit trial factors: 5.166 ms.
Best time for 62 bit trial factors: 8.531 ms.
Best time for 63 bit trial factors: 8.278 ms.
Best time for 64 bit trial factors: 7.528 ms.
Best time for 65 bit trial factors: 7.567 ms.
Best time for 66 bit trial factors: 7.495 ms.
Best time for 67 bit trial factors: 7.530 ms.
[Sat Apr 05 01:16:51 2008]
Self-test 1024K passed!


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## Okedokey

Test it on the motherboard.


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## Okedokey

Can you test the voltages with the game running and with 3DMark06 running and during Prime?  Not after as this doesn't test it during load.


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## Okedokey

im going to bed now, so i will have a look later.  if the psu comes out ok, then good!  we will look at alternatives.


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## Marcuz

I did test the voltages with the game running and with 3DMark06 running and during Prime. It went up 11.99. The prime results is Self-test 1024K passed.


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## Okedokey

Well that looks like good news then, as it seems your PSU can handle your system (which is s surprise to me to be honest).  My concern is though, after a few hours of gaming, your PSU may be heating up enough to reduce the efficiency of it sufficiently to cause too much ripple.  So, we'll move on to the only other things I can think of, but can you test the 12V rail again after several hours of gaming when you get a chance?  I know the following seems like a lot, but if we cover the PSU, driver conflicts (below) and chipset drivers we should be covering the whole lot.

In the meantime do this (order important):

Set a system restore point.
Download Driver Cleaner here and install: http://downloads.guru3d.com/download.php?det=745
Download your chipset drivers from here (*but don’t run yet*): http://us.download.nvidia.com/Windows/nForce/15.08/nforce_winvista32_15.08_english.exe
Download your ATi drivers from here (*but don’t install yet*): http://game.amd.com/us-en/drivers_catalyst.aspx?p=vista32/common-vista32
Run Driver Cleaner for ATi and nVidia.
Restart in *Safe Mode *(tap F8 on restart)
Install the chipset drivers (downloaded at number 2.)
Restart in *Safe mode *again.
Install the ATi drivers (downloaded at 3.)
Restart normally.
Update your Operating System (including SP1) with Microsoft Update.
Update Direct X here: http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/...38-DB71-4C1B-BC6A-9B6652CD92A3&displaylang=en
Restart.

Finally, I am not yet convinced of that PSU, so can you do the following?


I noticed from your photos that you're only using a secondary 6 pin PCIe connection to the card.  Did your card come with a 6 pin PCIe to 8 pin PCIe adaptor?  If not purchase a 6 pin to 6+2 pin adaptor that converts your PSU’s 6 pin PCIe socket to an 8 pin.  You can find one here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21721  This should provide improved PSU sensing and hopefully stability.


Also, as mentioned above, can you please test your PSU again, once you have been gaming for a few hours as I am concerned about the PSU and the fact that I think it is running at near capacity.


When you get another freeze, go to the search bar and type _event_.  Then click on *event viewer *and review the errors, particularly those that represent a crash or hang.  Take note of those and post them.

Sorry I couldn’t be any more help.


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## Marcuz

Do you mean this


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## Okedokey

Yes.

Try my above post, that way we can be certain its not a driver conflict etc.


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## Marcuz

This is getting me very frustrated because I did download ATI. I don't know which option 1 or 2, so I chose option 2 because there says display driver that what you want, so I followed step by step. I got failed install ATI driver. I don't know what to do because I try to go back restart normally. I got crashed on blue screen that won't let me in. I tried again and restarted, but still same thing. Would you please tell me how to fix this problem? Thank you.


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## Okedokey

Did you follow it exactly, ie no skipped bits, in safe mode etc?  I need to know exactly what you did?


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## Marcuz

I followed your step by step when you explained, so I did.

1. Set a system restore point. 
2. Download Driver Cleaner here and install: http://downloads.guru3d.com/download.php?det=745 
3. Download your chipset drivers from here (but don’t run yet): http://us.download.nvidia.com/Window...08_english.exe 
4. Download your ATi drivers from here (but don’t install yet): http://game.amd.com/us-en/drivers_ca...common-vista32 
5. Run Driver Cleaner for ATi and nVidia. 
6. Restart in Safe Mode (tap F8 on restart) 
7. Install the chipset drivers (downloaded at number 2.) 
8. Restart in Safe mode again. 
9. Install the ATi drivers (downloaded at 3.) 
10. Restart normally. 
11. Update your Operating System (including SP1) with Microsoft Update. 
12. Update Direct X here: http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en 
13. Restart. 

Ok, look at number 9 that where I got this problem. 
I did download the number 4. Really, I don't know which option 1 or 2, so I chose option 2 download of display driver, that is all what I did. I was in safe mode and I tried to install on ATI displayer driver, but I got error like it says failed to load detection driver and I clicked ok. Then, it says failed to find any installable components, so I restarted normally and I got a blue screen. I am stuck and I can't get in my computer, but only safe mode can do. Please, help me to fix this problem.


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## Okedokey

Ok don't stress.

Start in *safe *mode and use *Driver Cleaner *again for ATi to get rid of whatever you installed.  The blue screen is a driver issue, so don't worry.

Restart in safe mode again.

Install the driver in Option 2: http://game.amd.com/us-en/drivers_catalyst.aspx?p=vista32/common-vista32  (i assume you have 32bit Vista?)

Restart.

Follow the rest of the directions.


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## Marcuz

I did it and it is the same thing.


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## Okedokey

Use the drivers from the CD you got with the card.  I don't understand why it want take the drivers?  Bloody ATi.


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## Marcuz

Drivers CD not working same thing it failed.


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## Okedokey

System restore mate.  Use it to go back.


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## Marcuz

System restore mate? How can I do that?


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## mep916

Marcuz said:


> System restore mate? How can I do that?



Click the Windows logo and type system restore into the search bar.


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## Marcuz

Ok, now my pc is back to normal, thank god. What do I have to do the next?


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## Okedokey

This is why my first point was to set a system restore point.  Don't stress mate, i am not going to leave you with a broken machine.  So in summary you get freezes and hangs during gaming and we have:

1. Checked for heat and dust and cable managment.
2. Tested the PSU and the 12V rail seems ok (though i am suspicious about rail balancing and heat still).
3. Tried updating the drivers, but they seem flaky and cause BSOD - had to restore.
4. Updated nVidia chipset drivers.
5. Update Windows and Direct X

Since you are not having any luck updating ATi drivers, just do this as per my previous instructions:


Update your Operating System (including SP1) with Microsoft Update. 
Update Direct X here: http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en 
Restart.
Ensure all game updates and patches are applied.

As per previous post, please get yourself a 6 to 8 pin PCIe adaptor for the second power connection on your gpu.  Also, test the 12V rail again after several hours of gaming.  I am a bit concerned about your motherboard setup as you were not able to see the information we were expecting on nTune (temps etc) and drivers cannot detect hardware properly.

If it were my computer, i would ensure i had the latest motherboard bios.  This is not as risky as it once was, but still has an element of risk.  If you would like to look at that further, please download PC Wizard from my sig and install it. Then go to FILE, SAVE AS and click OK.  Then save the text file, and copy its contents to this thread.

Sorry I couldn’t be any more help.


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## Marcuz

Are you saying that I have to buy a 6-Pin PCI Express to 8-Pin PCI Express 2 Adapter Cable first? Once when I receive it and then, plug it. Then, do that instructions, right?


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## Okedokey

Marcuz said:


> Are you saying that I have to buy a 6-Pin PCI Express to 8-Pin PCI Express 2 Adapter Cable first? Once when I receive it and then, plug it. Then, do that instructions, right?



No, go ahead with the instructions, just get that adaptor when you next can.


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## Marcuz

I kept trying to place an order to buy a 6-Pin PCI Express to 8-Pin PCI Express 2 Adapter Cable on the site that you gave me, but it has an error page that won't place an order which I don't know why. This Monday, I am going to call up and find it out to see if I can place an order on the call from that site.


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## Marcuz

Hey this site is finally working, so I just placed an order to buy adapter today. I will receive it in the mail hopefully this week.


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## Okedokey

Glad to hear it mate.  This won't necessarily fix all you problems, but it wont hurt thats for sure.  How did you go updating windows and direct x?


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## Okedokey

Can you download PC Wizard for me and install it.  Then go to FILE, SAVE AS and click OK.  then save the text file and copy its contents to this thread.  I want to try and sort out your chipset drivers and ATi drivers if we can.


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## Marcuz

Here is:

Operating System: Windows Vista (TM) Home Premium Home Edition 6.00.6001 Service Pack 1
Report Date: Monday 07 April 2008 at 00:56

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


<<< System Summary >>>

  > Mainboard : alienware alienware

  > Chipset : nVidia nForce 680i SLI SPP

  > Processor : Intel Core 2 Duo E4500 @ 2200 MHz

  > Physical Memory : 8192 MB (4 x 2048 DDR2-SDRAM )

  > Video Card : ATI Technologies Inc ATI Radeon HD 3870 X2

  > Monitor Type : Hewlett Packard HP w2007 - 20 inches

  > Operating System : Windows Vista (TM) Home Premium Home Edition 6.00.6001 Service Pack 1

  > DirectX : Version 10.00

  > Windows Performance Index : 1.0

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
***** End of report *****

By the way I did update windows and direct x. I did test the voltages with the game running for 4 hours is 11.96. So far, I am been playing game for 8 hours. It seems everything is ok. I am going play game for 24 hours and to see if everything is ok.


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## mep916

Marcuz said:


> I am going play game for 24 hours



Wow!


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## Marcuz

mep916 said:


> Wow!


lol, that does not mean I am sitting to play game for 24 hours. I mean I will be away from keyboard while I go to sleep till 8 or 9 hours to wake up and to see how my computer goes.


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## Marcuz

Hey bigfellla, my computer is been on for 24 hours. It seems everything is ok.


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## Okedokey

Great news mate glad to hear its sorted!  Keep an eye on it, and hey, now you know how to test a PSU.


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