# OC'ing E6300



## Kornowski

Well, I don't really know if I should OC my CPU, You see, I'm the type of person that worries too much!

I bought my E6300 recently and it's still in it's 3 year warranty.

I know that OC'ing voids this warranty too, I don't know if it's worth it?

Would there be a significant performance increase, would I notice it?

I'm trying to way up the cons and pros.


----------



## wizle

IMO you should wait until you are ready to up grade then you have that 6 mth grace period where you can really spin that puppy, then with all the old parts you are replacing you build someone real nice rig for a few $  

Oh and thanks for the help with my hp pavillion       the grand kids love it


----------



## hermeslyre

As long as you know what your doing there is no cons IMO. There are a ton of pros however, Running games better, faster system, getting the performance of a more expensive chip for free. Just read up on it beforehand, make sure you know what your doing.


----------



## Kornowski

> IMO you should wait until you are ready to up grade then you have that 6 mth grace period where you can really spin that puppy, then with all the old parts you are replacing you build someone real nice rig for a few $
> 
> Oh and thanks for the help with my hp pavillion the grand kids love it



I won't be upgrading for aaaages.

You're welcome 



> As long as you know what your doing there is no cons IMO. There are a ton of pros however, Running games better, faster system, getting the performance of a more expensive chip for free. Just read up on it beforehand, make sure you know what your doing.



I don't know what I'm doing 
I've never done it before, I don't know if it needs the extra though.


----------



## ADE

1stn off, do you have good cooling?


----------



## Kornowski

It's Ok, yeah, I'm adding a 80mm fan to the front, I have two 80mm on the side and an 80mm on the back. 

My idle temp is 34c.


----------



## hermeslyre

You could always use the extra Boost  However i wouldn't recommend overclocking yet if you wouldn't need it. Are there any games that you can't play on max? Any games you get lag on? Do you want a quicker boot time/faster multitasking? All questions you have to ask yourself. 

Ocing your 7900gs is easier and would result in a larger FPS jump though it obviously wouldn't affect your system as a whole.


----------



## Kornowski

> You could always use the extra Boost However i wouldn't recommend overclocking yet if you wouldn't need it. Are there any games that you can't play on max? Any games you get lag on? Do you want a quicker boot time/faster multitasking? All questions you have to ask yourself.
> 
> Ocing your 7900gs is easier and would result in a larger FPS jump though it obviously wouldn't affect your system as a whole.



Well, the only game I haven't been able to run on max smoothly is Cellfacrot  Then again, it is really demanding, I know people with E6600's and 8800GTS that still struggle and get 10fps.

Again, the card would be in it's warranty, would there be a huge gain there? I think the XFX cards come factory OC'ed.


----------



## Geoff

Yes overclock it!  Who cares about the warranty, you wont have that processor for 3 years anyways


----------



## g4m3rof1337

I've been wanting to OC my e6300 and 7900GS for awhile. 

  I'd go for it.
 I will be soon.
Once I buy a better cpu cooler and gpu cooler and add the 80mm exhaust on the top of my case.


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski: http://www.computerforum.com/55017-my-allendale-overclock.html (in that thread, you will see I took the processor to 3.5Ghz @ 40*C with stock cooling)

You should have a read through that topic. It was basically my experience throughout the whole overclocking procedure. Same board too.

I can provide you with help and information in which settings you should change. If you're going to overclock it - take it to 2.8Ghz. It's a nice round number, and keeps the RAM @ 400Mhz (800Mhz dual channel).

All I can say is you should do it. You'll be getting a whole load more performance for your money, a cool new experience, and it's pretty fun too  Nothing will go wrong as long as you know what you're doing.

- Rambo.


----------



## g4m3rof1337

Rambo, I might ask you for some help. But I dont want to over do it, since you just helped me with something that was a bit tricky. Lol.


----------



## PabloTeK

Actually Rambo it ain't dual channel but dual data rate

Anyway, if you want to overclock, go for it and if the chip does die it's very hard to prove an overclock because if you put the chip in a new box then it runs at standard settings. Althpugh I'd get some thermal paste as yours is runnng a bit hot. Mine idles at around 22-25 centigrade for example.


----------



## Kornowski

Thanks Rambo, thats a lot of help right there!

Are you sure nothing can go wrong? I think IF I was to do it, I'd buy a new heatsink and fan, one that wouldn't require me taking the motherboard out, and isn't expensive, any suggestions?

Thanks a lot guys!


----------



## garethcia

Don't OC it. Warranty is a good thing and is highly recommended you stick to the rules of it.

If something goes wrong you don't pay 4 the replacement hehe

Hope this helps


----------



## Rambo

GCR said:


> Actually Rambo it ain't dual channel but dual data rate



And I shall correct you one step further by saying that DDR is actually *Double* Data Rate.


----------



## PabloTeK

Rambo said:


> And I shall correct you one step further by saying that DDR is actually *Double* Data Rate.



Oi

Anyway, many of the better coolers require the motherboard to be removed to fit a bracket. However the Scythe Mine doesn't seem to need one.


----------



## hermeslyre

I dunno if it's been mentioned in a link but to overclock your 7900 you will need to download either Coolbits or Ntune, then head over to the Nvidia control panel , or start ntune, and hit the overclocking tab. From there you should try a large jump on the Core or mem clock (20-30mhz) then test the change, if it's accepted try a smaller jump and test. Keep doing this till the settings aren't accepted, dial the clock back till it is and start on the other clock. Just a warning ntune seems to be alittle bitchy with the stability test.. Coolbits accepted my settings but ntune didn't. I played a couple games and didn't run into any problems so...  

If you are really into it you can try a pencil volt mod (google it).. It will up the voltage a tiny bit allowing for a higher overclock. I myself don't do it, I just thought you might like to know your options.


----------



## Rambo

hermeslyre said:


> I dunno if it's been mentioned in a link but to overclock your 7900 you will need to download either Coolbits or Ntune, then head over to the Nvidia control panel , or start ntune, and hit the overclocking tab. From there you should try a large jump on the Core or mem clock (20-30mhz) then test the change, if it's accepted try a smaller jump and test. Keep doing this till the settings aren't accepted, dial the clock back till it is and start on the other clock. Just a warning ntune seems to be alittle bitchy with the stability test.. Coolbits accepted my settings but ntune didn't. I played a couple games and didn't run into any problems so...
> 
> If you are really into it you can try a pencil volt mod (google it).. It will up the voltage a tiny bit allowing for a higher overclock. I myself don't do it, I just thought you might like to know your options.



Or you can edit the graphics card bios and reflash it with the overclocked entries. This is good, because it no longer requires any software to be run at startup in order to overclock it. Also, if you then go into other operating systems, it remains overclocked (can be seen as a good or bad thing, depending on how you look at it).


----------



## curtains

i couldn't be bothered readin everything ... but I say overclock it ... why wait untill u need the extra performance, ... you'll just be missing out on extra performance you coulda got ages ago .. these CPU's (C2D) overclock very well .. on average like 3.0ghz .. I have a E6400 overclocked to 3.2ghz .. as long as you have good cooling it should be fine ... I havent uped the voltage ... and my I'd tempture is 28 degrees C .. and at load its around 40


----------



## Kornowski

Just before I do this, well later anyway.

Are you sure there is nothing that can really go wrong if I'm just say, upping the FSB?

Can you guys recomend me a CPU cooler that doesn't involve taking the motherboard out please? Not too expensive either 

http://www.ebuyer.com/customer/prod...hvd19wcm9kdWN0X292ZXJ2aWV3&product_uid=105994

How would that be?

Thanks


----------



## taylormsj

TBH i doubt you will need a new CPU cooler as the C2D dont get that much hotter when OC'ed. My CPU even when overclocked 500 MHZ goes about 3 C higher than not over clocked at full load . as long as you leave the voltages the same the temp wont get much higher at all and wont damage the CPU at all either. And if you overclocked and the computer wouldnt boot. Just take the battery out for a minute and bakc in and BIOS will be reset. No danger realy at all


----------



## PabloTeK

As far as I know, this doesn't need the motherboard removing:

http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/127438


----------



## Kornowski

> My CPU even when overclocked 500 MHZ goes about 3 C higher than not over clocked at full load



You have a Zalman cooler though?

I'm really considering it, but again, as usual, I'm worrying I'll do something wrong. Cock it up and it'll be bust and the warranty won't count.


----------



## Master Mind

[-0MEGA-];661060 said:
			
		

> Yes overclock it!  Who cares about the warranty, you wont have that processor for 3 years anyways



exactly right -0MEGA- thats exactly what i say to the paranoid C2D owners. the first minute i got this cpu in my computer, i overclocked it. i didnt give a crap about the warranty. personally, thats the reason i even bought the E6600 cpu..... because it can overclock! MASSIVELY!!!

Master Mind


----------



## Master Mind

Kornowski said:


> You have a Zalman cooler though?
> 
> I'm really considering it, but again, as usual, I'm worrying I'll do something wrong. Cock it up and it'll be bust and the warranty won't count.



if your looking for a good heatsink, ive read many reviews on the Tuniq Tower 120 HS/F, awesome cooling for S775 cpus.... very good overclocking too....

Master Mind


----------



## Kornowski

> exactly right -0MEGA- thats exactly what i say to the paranoid C2D owners. the first minute i got this cpu in my computer, i overclocked it. i didnt give a crap about the warranty. personally, thats the reason i even bought the E6600 cpu..... because it can overclock! MASSIVELY!!!



The warranty, if it breaks you don't have to buy a new one.

So, basically, All I need to do it up the FSB a little? What would you suggest I put it up to?


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> The warranty, if it breaks you don't have to buy a new one.
> 
> So, basically, All I need to do it up the FSB a little? What would you suggest I put it up to?



It's running @ 266 now, right? So push it up to 280Mhz. You should be able to go all the way up to 400Mhz with ease. What is your RAM speed?


----------



## Kornowski

I assume it's @ 266, it's clocked @ 1.86 and I haven't changed anything...

It's Corsair XMS2 DDR2 5400

This isn't where I bought it from, but it's the same RAM.
http://www.dabs.com/productview.asp...ationKey=11150,385640000,50113#specifications


400mhz, you mean it can get it to 2.4 GHZ?

What about the PSU, it's 380watt, think it'll be Ok?


----------



## INTELCRAZY

You and Rambo have pretty close specifications. 400Mhz FSB wouldn't be 2.4Ghz, it would be 2.8Ghz. I would go a bit higher on a PSU, you're gonna need it in the future anyway.


----------



## Kornowski

So what do I do, change the FSB or the MHZ.

Or is the 266mhz the FSB? I'm new to this you see.

Just to get it straight, changing the FSB is *all* I have to do?

So you think I should give it a go, stock cooling and thermal paste, 34c - idle.

Think I should try it?


----------



## ducis

no if you want to acually raise your temps and get to 3ghz ull need t raise its vcore uppin the FSB doesnt make your cpu hotter so its risk free but ull only gain a hz 

heres a list
step 1: adjust your fsb to ram clock ratio t 1:1
step 2:lower you multiplier to as low as it can go
step 3: raise FSB
step 4: raise you multiplier back again as far as it can go before you get unstable 
step5: raise voltages 
step5: repeat steps 3,4,5 untill your high temps cause errors
step6:lower clocks until stable
step7: enjoy lighting fast performance


----------



## Rambo

firsttimebuilder said:


> step 4: raise you multiplier back again as far as it can go before you get unstable



I don't understand why you would want to do that. I'm not saying that you're wrong, but what's the point?

The way I did it, was by upping the FSB from 266 to around 280 and continued from there. To be honest, you should be able to take it to atleast 350 Mhz.

Edit: Kornowski, have a look here:

http://www.computerforum.com/70708-e6300-oc-only-up-2387mhz-need-advice-2.html#post546163


----------



## Kornowski

> heres a list
> step 1: adjust your fsb to ram clock ratio t 1:1
> step 2:lower you multiplier to as low as it can go
> step 3: raise FSB
> step 4: raise you multiplier back again as far as it can go before you get unstable
> step5: raise voltages
> step5: repeat steps 3,4,5 untill your high temps cause errors
> step6:lower clocks until stable
> step7: enjoy lighting fast performance



That sounds very complicated and risky, I don't know if I want to do that.



> The way I did it, was by upping the FSB from 266 to around 280 and continued from there. To be honest, you should be able to take it to atleast 350 Mhz.



Right, So I'll just try changing the FSB to 280 and see how it goes, I don't want to mess with any RAM timings, or voltages for anything.

Also, if it goes wrong and won't boot, just remove the battery on the board, I have tried removing it in the past, and I've had a little trouble, is there any special way to do it?


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Right, So I'll just try changing the FSB to 280 and see how it goes, I don't want to mess with any RAM timings, or voltages for anything.
> 
> Also, if it goes wrong and won't boot, just remove the battery on the board, I have tried removing it in the past, and I've had a little trouble, is there any special way to do it?



Yeah, that sounds fine. It's really not as bad as you think. And my DS3 sometimes resets itself to default BIOS values when it doesn't boot up (some sort of safety feature). Either way, you're safe.

Now do it already!


----------



## Kornowski

Well, a small OC to 2 GHZ. It's running Ok, I haven't tested it yet though, how do I do that?

Also, is it right for it to shutdown after exiting the BIOS after saving the changes? It starts up Ok aftet that though.

My temps are getting higher too, from 34c to 38c, I may invest in an aftermarked cooler.

So, you guys are sure I can't damage my CPU *at all* doing this?

I really appriciate the help, thanks a lot Rambo


----------



## Kornowski

One more thing, is there anything that I have to keep an eye on, like other hardware's frequencies or anything, or the north/south bridge temps, how do I check these?


----------



## Maddhatter

i've been told its impossible to fry an intel chip from overclocking...supposedly the pc will just shut down before any damage is done.


----------



## Kornowski

Oh right, I don't know, I've never heard that, I thought you could fry any chip from OC'ing it too much.

Also, another thing I noticed was that when I hit the reset switch the computer would just turn off, it wouldn't reset, but I'll test this more tonight when I'm back from college.


----------



## hermeslyre

to test your overclock download Orthos:
http://sp2004.fre3.com/beta/beta2.htm
It runs two instances of Prime95 on both cores simultaneously to stress test the Overclock. An overclock is generally accepted to be stable if it can pass a 24hr stress test.. Just remember to do the test on the OC you want to keep, else it would take you days to finally get there.

After I OC in the BIOS then save and exit it sometimes doesn't post, like you, it doesnt seem to be a problem though.

The only damage you can do to you CPU when overclocking is by upping the voltages too much.. Call me psychic but i don't think you'll have that problem

My reset switch doesnt even work, so i can't help you there.


----------



## Kornowski

Thanks for that link, I'll get it when I get in, I don't know if I could do a 24 hour stress test on it, I could do maybe, 16... 

What do you mean it could take days to finally get there?

Strange that it doesn't post, I wonder why it doesn't... 

Nah, I think you're right, I won't be upping the Vcore at all 

lol, Ok sure, I'll test it properly when I get in, I don't know it wouldn't work.


----------



## hermeslyre

Kornowski said:


> Thanks for that link, I'll get it when I get in, I don't know if I could do a 24 hour stress test on it, I could do maybe, 16...
> 
> What do you mean it could take days to finally get there?
> 
> Strange that it doesn't post, I wonder why it doesn't...
> 
> Nah, I think you're right, I won't be upping the Vcore at all
> 
> lol, Ok sure, I'll test it properly when I get in, I don't know it wouldn't work.




Overclocking is all about taking it slow.. Making a small jump and then testing to see if your system is stable. If you did a full prime95 test each time you made a small jump it would take you days. That's what i meant.

It's accepted that most CPU's have some headroom at stock. So one or two large jumps then subsequent smaller jumps is Much faster than the old way of 5mhz increase by 5mhz increase..


----------



## Kornowski

I get what you meant now  

I think I need to buy a new CPU cooler to be able to go a little higher, as you can see it's running a little hot.

I'm going to get the Arctic Cooler Freezer Pro 7, as you don't have to remove the MOBO to put it in and it's only £20.

What do you I will be able to read without touching the voltages, just using the FSB?

Also, I had trouble removing the CMOS battery, got any tips on how to do it?

Thanks a lot for all this help dude


----------



## Kornowski

Does OC'ing the CPU OC any other components, also, how do I check if anything else isn't get too hot, like the northbridge or something.


----------



## PabloTeK

The motherboard RAM and CPU all go as one I think in overclocking.


----------



## Kornowski

I don't know how to monitor my RAM, I don't know if I'm doing any damage to it?


----------



## Kornowski

I got it to 2.2GHZ, I think it was 320mhz, I can't remember, it was Ok.

I've noticed though, when-ever I press the reset switch on my case, it goes to reset and then powers off, it then resets the BIOS to default settings and the OC is gone.

Also, I still don't know if it is worth it, I know I'm being a huge pain in the A$$...


----------



## Maddhatter

you really should get some high speed ram for overclocking and definitely a better cooler. Im getting the one you mentioned as well because its only $34 on newegg and it got some really good reviews. The way i see it tho if you don't need the overclock then its not worth it to do it as you will not see a performance increase unless you need it. I always wondered if intels chips were meant to be overclocked why didn't they just overclock them from the start? the rated speed they are shipped at has to be set for a reason.


----------



## Geoff

You can get alot higher then 2.2Ghz.  I used an E6300 and cheap Patriot DDR2-667 RAM and got the speed up to 3.2Ghz and the RAM up to DDR2-920 @ 5-5-5-15 timings.  You just have to raise the voltages of the RAM, CPU, FSB, Northbridge, adjust the timings, disable features such as spread spectrum and thermal throttling, and make misc BIOS tweaks.


----------



## ADE

I sorry to tell you, but Prime95 did nothing for me. I used it, it told me my computer was stable, then, it random restarts. (that was then, a while back) i don't trust it, don't see how i can if it did nothing for me. i duno it it was just me, but what i needed to do was add .1V to the north chip set i think (while ago) and it was fine, but if it couldn't tell me that, then what good is it.


----------



## Kornowski

I don't want to mess around with the voltages and timings of anything, I happy to raise the FSB though.

I don't have it @ 2.2 right now as I feel it was a bit hot, so I've got it at stock, I'll wait to OC some more when I get my new cooler. I just need to check that it'll fit in my case though.

OMEGA, How come you havne't OC'ed your PC in the sig, do dell lock the FSB and the like?

Maddhatter, I see what you mean, I don't know if I need it, I may just be doing it because I can and it's smore performance, I don't know if it's necasery. Also, The Arctic Freezer 7 does read up well, and you don't have to take the mobo out to fit it, just take the fan off, install the heatsink and then put the fan back on, it's really simple...  Apparently.


----------



## ADE

Kornowski said:


> I got it to 2.2GHZ, I think it was 320mhz, I can't remember, it was Ok.
> 
> I've noticed though, when-ever I press the reset switch on my case, it goes to reset and then powers off, it then resets the BIOS to default settings and the OC is gone.
> 
> Also, I still don't know if it is worth it, I know I'm being a huge pain in the A$$...



this is a safety feature, if you ever do something wrong, it will reset as to make sure you don't damage any parts. up the voltage by .1V to the GMH i believe and you will be stable. not the north bridge i said before. i worked for me. I recommend getting a thermaltake Extreme sprint 2 for your northbridge. it will get very hot at 3GHz.


----------



## Kornowski

> this is a safety feature, if you ever do something wrong, it will reset as to make sure you don't damage any parts. up the voltage by .1V to the GMH i believe and you will be stable. not the north bridge i said before. i worked for me. I recommend getting a thermaltake Extreme sprint 2 for your northbridge. it will get very hot at 3GHz.



What did I do wrong by resetting the computer?

I don't feel comfortable upping any voltages, would it does this everytime if I left the voltage and only changed the FSB?

I don't plan on taking it 3GHZ, maybe 2.4 or 2.6...


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> I don't plan on taking it 3GHZ, maybe 2.4 or 2.6...



Ok. You will want to take it to 2.8Ghz. 

What is your memory multiplier set at? It's 667Mhz RAM, so once you get the FSB to 350Mhz, you should start to consider changing the multiplier to 2.0. This way you're overclocking the CPU, but the RAM is staying the same as it would be at stock (Memory multi x FSB = RAM speed  ).

Kornowski, I encourage you to think about adding .1v+ to the Northbridge. Doing this *will not* hard your motherboard at all. If it did, why would they include the setting in the first place?

Your motherboard needs that extra juice running through the Northbridge/MCH (Memory Controller Hub) in order to keep it stable. *Trust me.* I took this thing to 3.5Ghz and beyond with the _stock cooler_ - I know what I'm talking about.

So - what are you waiting for? Get OC'ing


----------



## ADE

Rambo, i think i must question your telling of getting that speed and saying it was stable. 
1. why don't you have it at that speed now? 
2. There is no way in hell that i could see a stock cooler getting that high OC with those temps!
3. why exactly does the manufacture date matter? I am hearing that when making CPU's there is something different in them or something as time goes on. something along those lines.

Although I total trust you on what you tell on overclocking, i find it hard to believe you have gotten to what you have said you had with what you had. Correct me if I'm wrong, but, why would you even want another cooler different from stock if it was more than enough? You wouldn't need another one. it does seem to add up what you tell me.


----------



## Kornowski

> Ok. You will want to take it to 2.8Ghz.



lol, Ok OC King 



> What is your memory multiplier set at? It's 667Mhz RAM, so once you get the FSB to 350Mhz, you should start to consider changing the multiplier to 2.0. This way you're overclocking the CPU, but the RAM is staying the same as it would be at stock (Memory multi x FSB = RAM speed  ).



I don't know what it's set at, sorry. Why is that, changing the FSB past 350 will OC the RAM? What is the multiplier and how does it work?



> Kornowski, I encourage you to think about adding .1v+ to the Northbridge. Doing this will not hard your motherboard at all. If it did, why would they include the setting in the first place?



Right, so is this in the tweaking options in the BIOS? So, what should it be set to? Is it unstable, you mean, when I hit the reset button it doesn't boot back up, it shuts off?



> Your motherboard needs that extra juice running through the Northbridge/MCH (Memory Controller Hub) in order to keep it stable. Trust me. I took this thing to 3.5Ghz and beyond with the stock cooler - I know what I'm talking about.



Do I have to worry about the temps of anything like the northbridge, I don't know how I would check them...



> So - what are you waiting for? Get OC'ing



I'm waiting to order the Arctic Cooler Freezer Pro 7 

Then I can OC some, I'm also adding an 80mm fan on the front, hopefully this will help by blowing air onto the CPU cooler.


----------



## hermeslyre

ADE said:


> Rambo, i think i must question your telling of getting that speed and saying it was stable.
> 1. why don't you have it at that speed now?
> 2. There is no way in hell that i could see a stock cooler getting that high OC with those temps!
> 3. why exactly does the manufacture date matter? I am hearing that when making CPU's there is something different in them or something as time goes on. something along those lines.
> 
> Although I total trust you on what you tell on overclocking, i find it hard to believe you have gotten to what you have said you had with what you had. Correct me if I'm wrong, but, why would you even want another cooler different from stock if it was more than enough? You wouldn't need another one. it does seem to add up what you tell me.



You've been brainwashed. And the answer you're looking for lies in your third question. What you are referring to is called the stepping, kind of related to the 2 character revision you see in Cpuz, eg. B2. It's basically what you said, the production week. It's a 6 character stepping that is going to be on the front of of your CPU, It cannot to my knowledge show up in any system information apps like sandra, everest, ect but it plays a big role in what you can or cannot do with the chip. Unfortunately this isn't alot if information on the net regarding this, implying that it isn't widely known or accepted.. I do have firsthand experience with it however and can attest to it's importance.


----------



## Maddhatter

if i were you i would be perfectly happy with an OC of 2.4 Ghz for an E6300 afterall thats equal to an E6600 and for almost $100 cheaper?


----------



## Rambo

ADE said:


> Rambo, i think i must question your telling of getting that speed and saying it was stable.
> 1. why don't you have it at that speed now?
> 2. There is no way in hell that i could see a stock cooler getting that high OC with those temps!
> 3. why exactly does the manufacture date matter? I am hearing that when making CPU's there is something different in them or something as time goes on. something along those lines.
> 
> Although I total trust you on what you tell on overclocking, i find it hard to believe you have gotten to what you have said you had with what you had. Correct me if I'm wrong, but, why would you even want another cooler different from stock if it was more than enough? You wouldn't need another one. it does seem to add up what you tell me.



1. I had it at that speed when the F2 BIOS was out (I think). Sure, it wasn't exactly 100% stable either. But then again - have I said that it was stable @ 3.5Ghz? However, it was stable enough to run Windows XP and open programs with it. I did not go any further to test it's stability at the time (which I regret now), but it wasn't so bad that it crashed after 1 minute.

The reason I don't have it at that speed now was because it idled @ 40*C - a temperature I was not happy with, despite the fact that is a very acceptable figure, considering the conditions it was in.

2. Well, believe it or not my friend, those were in fact the temperatures it idled at. For anyone missing the screenshot I had at the time:






I even went into the BIOS and the temperature was reported to be a few degrees below (38/39).

3. How is that relevant to my previous post?

What I have said on this forum has been the exact opposite of lies. I have never claimed to have a completely stable machine @ 3.5Ghz - just the fact that I was able to get it to that figure with great ease. That was my reason for bringing this up - the fact that it is piss easy to overclock these CPU's, and the fact the Kornowski is just getting into it.

- Rambo.


----------



## Kornowski

> if i were you i would be perfectly happy with an OC of 2.4 Ghz for an E6300 afterall thats equal to an E6600 and for almost $100 cheaper?



I reached 2.2 GHZ on it and it seemed Ok, but I didn't try and testing, didn't play a game or anything. Yeah, it would be a good OC I guess.

You know the reset problem what's causing that, why doesn't it boot back up?

Wow, Rambo, That's a post and a half  

There's still that voice in the back of my head, "It'll break, you'll break it, warranty won't count, they'll know, you've done it, lost that money!"

You know  I don't have voices in my head, by the way, it's just what I'm thinking, lol.


----------



## ADE

Rambo, what did it max temp at?


----------



## Geoff

Kornowski said:


> OMEGA, How come you havne't OC'ed your PC in the sig, do dell lock the FSB and the like?


I did overclock the video card by quite a bit and it made an improvement in gaming, but I havent gotten around to overclocking it again.

As for the CPU, I wouldnt dream of it, since this is a laptop overall


----------



## Kornowski

> As for the CPU, I wouldnt dream of it, since this is a laptop overall



Ahh, I didn't know that  Supose it would get a little hot.


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> I reached 2.2 GHZ on it and it seemed Ok, but I didn't try and testing, didn't play a game or anything. Yeah, it would be a good OC I guess.
> 
> You know the reset problem what's causing that, why doesn't it boot back up?
> 
> Wow, Rambo, That's a post and a half
> 
> There's still that voice in the back of my head, "It'll break, you'll break it, warranty won't count, they'll know, you've done it, lost that money!"
> 
> You know  I don't have voices in my head, by the way, it's just what I'm thinking, lol.



If you're sensible about what you change, then common sense usually stops anything from breaking.



ADE said:


> Rambo, what did it max temp at?



I'm not sure. I'd guess around ~50 - 55*C...


----------



## Kornowski

Got 3 questions for you 



> If you're sensible about what you change, then common sense usually stops anything from breaking.



1) What are the chances of it breaking through OC'ing, well, anything breaking?

2) What's causing the reset to not work and it losing the OC, why is this, and how can I prevent it?

3) Is it really worth it, Will I notice a difference from stock speeds to say, 2.5GHZ?

Thanks a lot


----------



## Rambo

1) There is a very low risk of you breaking anything. Again, as long as you know what you're changing (and the effect of changing it), common sense will stop anything before it breaks.

2) Not sure. Have you updated to the latest BIOS?

3) You will, yes. I noticed the difference from 1.86Ghz to 2.8Ghz. That a whole 1000Mhz difference. You should see how long it takes to calculate PI to 1M with SuperPI. Then do the same @ 2.8Ghz and you'll see quite a difference.


----------



## Kornowski

> 1) There is a very low risk of you breaking anything. Again, as long as you know what you're changing (and the effect of changing it), common sense will stop anything before it breaks.



Ok, Thanks for clearing that up! 

So, I trust you all to 'lead' me through it 



> 2) Not sure. Have you updated to the latest BIOS?



I have the one that was shipped with the board, I haven't updated it, it's only when I press the reset switch, which isn't often, I could probably like with it, also, I think somebody mentioned puting  the voltage on the northbridge up?



> 3) You will, yes. I noticed the difference from 1.86Ghz to 2.8Ghz. That a whole 1000Mhz difference. You should see how long it takes to calculate PI to 1M with SuperPI. Then do the same @ 2.8Ghz and you'll see quite a difference.



Oh right, I'll look into it over the weekend, thanks Rambo 

Now, to try and persuade my parents let me spend more money on my PC, it's only £20 though


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Ok, Thanks for clearing that up!
> 
> So, I trust you all to 'lead' me through it
> 
> 
> 
> I have the one that was shipped with the board, I haven't updated it, it's only when I press the reset switch, which isn't often, I could probably like with it, also, I think somebody mentioned puting  the voltage on the northbridge up?
> 
> 
> 
> Oh right, I'll look into it over the weekend, thanks Rambo
> 
> Now, to try and persuade my parents let me spend more money on my PC, it's only £20 though



You will definitely want to update to F10 (latest BIOS at the minute I think). Use a program called @BIOS by Gigabyte.

And get a debit card. That was you can buy stuff off the internet without using your parents card


----------



## Kornowski

> And get a debit card. That was you can buy stuff off the internet without using your parents card



I've got one of them, it's my Dad will make comments about me 'pouring' all my money into the computer, I won't hear the last of it 



> You will definitely want to update to F10 (latest BIOS at the minute I think). Use a program called @BIOS by Gigabyte.



Do you think that could be the problem, Ok. Thanks.


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Do you think that could be the problem, Ok. Thanks.



Yeah, that may be the reason. If not, +.1v to the MCH.


----------



## Kornowski

> Yeah, that may be the reason. If not, +.1v to the MCH.




MCH, I don't know what that is, where would I find that?


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> MCH, I don't know what that is, where would I find that?



Press Ctlr + F1 in the BIOS (unlocks hidden options), then go to M.I.T section. I think it's in there.


----------



## Kornowski

Ok, Thanks, Sure it's safe? Probably a stupid question 

Here's a thought, If the E6300 runs @ 1.86, and the E6600 @ 2.4

When you OC the E6300 and the temps get higher, why aren't they the same as the E6600, because it's the same FSB?


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Ok, Thanks, Sure it's safe? Probably a stupid question
> 
> Here's a thought, If the E6300 runs @ 1.86, and the E6600 @ 2.4
> 
> When you OC the E6300 and the temps get higher, why aren't they the same as the E6600, because it's the same FSB?



Generally, when you OC by upping the FSB, it doesn't get that much hotter. It's only when you start to up the vCore that it'll get hotter, due to more voltage running through it. That's why my E6300 idles at 28*C @ 3.0Ghz.


----------



## Kornowski

What CPU cooler do you have Rambo? Is it a Zalman?


----------



## ADE

mine used to do at my speed 27*C idle and 38*C max, but then came along my 8800GTS 640MB...it all when up hill from there....in temp anyway lol. I cant figure out why it will not allow me to manually up the fan on the GPU...


----------



## Kornowski

That's strange...

What cooler do you have ADE?


----------



## Rambo

I use the Zalman CNPS9500. However, you must remove the motherboard in order to install it.


----------



## Kornowski

Thats a pain, I bet it's good though, I've heard loads of good reviews on that Zalman cooler.


----------



## ADE

Rambo said:


> Generally, when you OC by upping the FSB, it doesn't get that much hotter. It's only when you start to up the vCore that it'll get hotter, due to more voltage running through it. That's why my E6300 idles at 28*C @ 3.0Ghz.



lets see you install a 8800GTS and see if your CPU temp are the same.


----------



## Rambo

ADE said:


> lets see you install a 8800GTS and see if your CPU temp are the same.



Well, considering the heat is exhausted out from the back of the card, I really don't think it would make much of a difference. Remember, my Heatsink Fan draws air sideways, not from directly around it. Therefore, if I'm blowing cool air from right to left, my Heatsink is mainly sucking up cool air coming in from the right (not the hot stuff below/above it).


----------



## Kornowski

Sorry to bring back an old thread guys, but I've been thinking of trying to OC again... The thing is last time I did it, I got to 2.2GHz and it was Ok, but I felt un-easy and put it back to stock and then a few days later the GPU started to go funny and I had to send it back 

In the 965P-S3's BIOS, it says when you change the FSB to manual you should change the sysyem voltages to auto ( I think it says auto), some people with the same board may know...

Anyway, one of the options there is the PCI-e Over Voltage, and I think this is what caused the GPU to go funny! I want to try OC'ing but I *REALLY* don't want to damage the CPU...

Any advice, can I get away with just changing the FSB?

Also, when I had it at 2.2 and I would press the reset button it would just turn off and the OC would be gone, it wouldn't reset...


----------



## Kornowski

I found this on the net, does it seem about right, anything wrong with it?



> ok...here are some things to get you started...
> when you enter bios, press CTRL+F1 to unlock all bios options
> disable EIST and C1
> set everything from auto to manual
> find the pci express lock and set it at 100mhz
> set the ram ratio at 2.0 (1:1)
> set your timings to the default timings used at 800mhz (it should say on your ram box or search the net to find that out if you don't already know)
> now when you've got all that covered, leave the multiplier at 9x and leave all the other voltages like vRAM, vFSB, vMCH, vPCIE at normal and just change the vCore from auto to 1.3250v (this is stock voltage for your cpu)
> 
> after all that you should be set to start rising the FSB in 20 by 20mhz increasement, when you reach 300mhz FSB, go with 5 by 5mhz
> 
> for monitoring purposes, use CPU-Z to read the core speed/fsb, memory timings/ratios and frequency under memory tab
> use core temp, everest or speedfan to monitor the temperature (disregard the cpu readings and concentrate on the core0 & core1 temps) and voltage
> you can also use cpu-z for voltage readings but it might have some problems reading it so use it only if it's readings correspond with the other programs
> 
> use orthos for stability testing and if your cpu becomes unstable (probably will after ~310mhz fsb) start adding a little voltage, just upp it one setting higher (first one possible in the bios) and check for stability again
> you're good up to 1.45v in windows, remember that idle voltage is what you're looking for because it will always drop a little when your pc is under load
> 
> also, watch out for the temps, you shouldn't let it go above 61c while under load


----------



## Jet

Nope. Looks fine.


----------



## Kornowski

Thanks


----------



## Kornowski

Sorry, I'm really paranoid... You guys sure it won't damage anything?

Think my PSU will be Ok, 380watt, +12(1)v 17A, +12(2) 17A?


----------



## ADE

Rambo said:


> Well, considering the heat is exhausted out from the back of the card, I really don't think it would make much of a difference. Remember, my Heatsink Fan draws air sideways, not from directly around it. Therefore, if I'm blowing cool air from right to left, my Heatsink is mainly sucking up cool air coming in from the right (not the hot stuff below/above it).



LOL! NO difference? the fan goes at 18 RPM! the fan sux! and I don't mean the blowing air kind! the fan is not as good as you think Rambo.


----------



## Kornowski

Anybody?



> Sorry, I'm really paranoid... You guys sure it won't damage anything?
> 
> Think my PSU will be Ok, 380watt, +12(1)v 17A, +12(2) 17A?


----------



## Geoff

You worry too much, lol.  Just raise the FSB, lower the RAM, and icnrease the voltage to no higher then 1.48v.


----------



## Kornowski

> You worry too much, lol



I know


----------



## Kornowski

When you set the RAM ratio to 2.0 (1:1) this underclocks it till you reach a certain FSB, 333Mhz or something...

Is this Ok?

Also, when I go past 333(?) will the RAM be OC'ed?


----------



## taylormsj

i set my ram from 200 (400) to 166 (333)


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> When you set the RAM ratio to 2.0 (1:1) this underclocks it till you reach a certain FSB, 333Mhz or something...
> 
> Is this Ok?
> 
> Also, when I go past 333(?) will the RAM be OC'ed?



Yes, it's just running at a slower speed, that's all (just like I said in the PM ).

When you hit 333 Mhz, your RAM speed will be 666Mhz. You said your RAM speed wat 675 Mhz, so, divide that by 2 and you get 338 Mhz (337.5 to be exact). When you go over that, you begin to overclock your RAM.


----------



## Kornowski

> Yes, it's just running at a slower speed, that's all (just like I said in the PM ).



Sorry, Thanks for that, So when I reach 333Mhz (I think thats what you said)
my RAM will be at it's normal speed again, if I go over that will the RAM then start to be OC'ed?


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Sorry, Thanks for that, So when I reach 333Mhz (I think thats what you said)
> my RAM will be at it's normal speed again, if I go over that will the RAM then start to be OC'ed?



Well, when you go over 338 Mhz it will be at it's stock speed.


----------



## Kornowski

> Well, when you go over 338 Mhz it will be at it's stock speed.



Ah right, that's what I wanted to know, thanks Rambo! 

What Ghz would the CPU be at, when the FSB is 338Mhz?


----------



## Rambo

338 x 7 = 2.37 Ghz


----------



## Kornowski

Awesome, I'd be pleased with that OC!

There's something that confuses me though:



> Well, when you go over 338 Mhz it will be at it's stock speed.





> divide that by 2 and you get 338 Mhz (337.5 to be exact). When you go over that, you begin to overclock your RAM.


----------



## Kornowski

Can anybody clear it up please?


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Can anybody clear it up please?



Sorry, I phrased it wrong. This is what I meant to say:

When you hit 338 Mhz, your RAM will be at it's stock speed. Anything above that, and you then begin to overclock it.


----------



## PabloTeK

I'm guessing you have PC2-5300 RAM, so when you hit 338 your RAM will be at 667MHz because DDR doubles the clock speeds. Any higher and the memory will be overclocked because the FSB and memory frequencies are linked. Not sure if you have PC2-6400 though.


----------



## Kornowski

> Sorry, I phrased it wrong. This is what I meant to say:
> 
> When you hit 338 Mhz, your RAM will be at it's stock speed. Anything above that, and you then begin to overclock it.



Ah right, It's Ok, I get what you mean!
I think I'd probably leave it at 338Mhz, I don't really want to OC my RAM...


----------



## PabloTeK

You have a heat spreader so it'll help, my RAM stays fairly cool at 800MHz with it's orange RAMsink on.


----------



## Kornowski

I have PC5400, it runs at 675Mhz.

Do you OC GCR?



> You have a heat spreader so it'll help, my RAM stays fairly cool at 800MHz with it's orange RAMsink on.



Yeah, it has a heat spreader on, but is that all I need to keep it cool?


----------



## PabloTeK

Not done so yet, I'm hoping for help from Rambo so watch this space. If you got to 400MHz you'd be seeing 2.8GHz and to get to 3GHz you need an FSB of about 430MHz.


----------



## Kornowski

> Not done so yet, I'm hoping for help from Rambo so watch this space. If you got to 400MHz you'd be seeing 2.8GHz and to get to 3GHz you need an FSB of about 430MHz.



Do you think you need the extra performance from your CPU?
Yeah, either 2.4, or 2.6 I'd be happy with to be honest.


----------



## PabloTeK

I'd like the extra performance really, not sure if I need it...


----------



## Kornowski

> I'd like the extra performance really, not sure if I need it...



Yeah, Same with me, I'd like it, but I don't know if I need it, I don't know if the rewards worth the risk, you know?


----------



## PabloTeK

Well proving an overclock killed a CPU is very hard because as soon as you take it out of the system it's just at stock as all the information for controlling the chip is held on the motherboard EPROM and a clearing of that can disprove overclocking should the whole thing die. But that's very rare.


----------



## Kornowski

Yeah, there is very little chance of it being killed. But it's in the back of my head all the time, is that not the case with you?

Then, IF it does break, I can't be bothered sending it back and waiting...


----------



## PabloTeK

Well I'm used to waiting, Rambo knows what I mean... And that sort of thing doesn't worry me as these CPU's can take an inordinate amount of strain, for example they're pumping enough current to kill a couple of hundred people through them. So they are well-built.


----------



## Kornowski

Yeah, I heard they can take up 1.450 volts and the stock is 1.3250.

Do you think you'll OC it, If I do OC, I'd be happy with it @ 2.4 or 2.6


----------



## PabloTeK

I will do in good time, although it takes me a while to do anything. I'd be happy with 2.8GHz and even happier with 3GHz!


----------



## Kornowski

How come it take you a while to do certain stuff...

Yeah, I'd be well happy with 2.4 as it would of cost me £100 for a £150 CPU


----------



## PabloTeK

I'm slow, lazy and doing GCSE's


----------



## Kornowski

> I'm slow, lazy and doing GCSE's



That's fair enough 

So we can be nervous OC'ing buddies then


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski, I also have PC2-5400 RAM. However, I have mine overclocked to 800Mhz with no problems at all. I added +0.2v (in fact, that's only +0.1v because our RAM requires 1.9v in the first place, and 1.8v is the default setting when set to normal voltage). You just need to realise how easy it is to overclock, and how risk-free it actually is.


----------



## Kornowski

Alright, Thanks for some more words of wisdom Rambo 

I have a few questions though:

1) Do I have to disable EIST and C1?

2) What do I set my RAM timings to, or do I leave it how it is?

3) How long can I expect my OC'ed system to last?

4) What should the voltages be at, I know the Vcore is @ 1.3250, all the others I will leave, but what about eh vRAM, vFSB and the vMCH?

5) Will my Southbridge get hot, I haven't touched this to see how hot it is... My Northbridge is warm, but by no means hot.

6) Are you sick of me yet


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Alright, Thanks for some more words of wisdom Rambo
> 
> I have a few questions though:
> 
> 1) Do I have to disable EIST and C1?
> 
> 2) What do I set my RAM timings to, or do I leave it how it is?
> 
> 3) How long can I expect my OC'ed system to last?
> 
> 4) What should the voltages be at, I know the Vcore is @ 1.3250, all the others I will leave, but what about eh vRAM, vFSB and the vMCH?
> 
> 5) Will my Southbridge get hot, I haven't touched this to see how hot it is... My Northbridge is warm, but by no means hot.
> 
> 6) Are you sick of me yet



1) Yes. This will put less strain on the Northbridge, thus allowing it to run cooler/stabler.

2) Set it to 2.0. Then keep raising the FSB until you reach 338 Mhz.

3) At least 7 or 8 years sounds about right, but then again, I cannot guarantee anything.

4) Set the MCH to +0.1v. That should be just about it.

5) It's not the Southbridge, it's the Northbridge. It will be fine. Just check up on it every now and then. Adding 0.1v isn't going to do much though. I've surged the max into it before (+0.3v), and I haven't had any problems.

6) Just about.


----------



## Kornowski

Thanks a lot Rambo! 

Two *final* questions, will my PSU be Ok?

Also, What should I set the DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) to?

Thanks so much for the help and advice Rambo!


----------



## Kornowski

Anybody


----------



## Geoff

Kornowski said:


> Thanks a lot Rambo!
> 
> Two *final* questions, will my PSU be Ok?
> 
> Also, What should I set the DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) to?
> 
> Thanks so much for the help and advice Rambo!


You're PSU should be fine, just take a loot at the voltages to make sure that they arent too far off from what they should be.  Such as the +12V being at 11v, etc.

Im not sure what RAM you have exactly, but for overclocking the CPU I would select higher then needed timings, to ensure that the RAM isnt bottlenecking.  I would set it to 6-6-6-18 for any speed up to DDR2-950, any higher and I would raise it a bit more.  I would also set the voltage to 2.05-2.10v.


----------



## Rambo

[-0MEGA-];686442 said:
			
		

> You're PSU should be fine, just take a loot at the voltages to make sure that they arent too far off from what they should be.  Such as the +12V being at 11v, etc.
> 
> Im not sure what RAM you have exactly, but for overclocking the CPU I would select higher then needed timings, to ensure that the RAM isnt bottlenecking.  I would set it to 6-6-6-18 for any speed up to DDR2-950, any higher and I would raise it a bit more.  I would also set the voltage to 2.05-2.10v.



Well, in my opinion 6-6-6-18 is a bit much, but that's debatable, so... but yeah, Omega has it right, set the timings to higher settings, either the ones he suggested, or my personal preference is 5-5-5-15 (unless they are your stock timings, in which case, follow Omega's ones). Set the RAM overvoltage to +0.1v for now, and the MCH to +0.1v too. You should be fine up to 338 Mhz with that.

*Edit:*

Now that I think about it, you're not going to be overclocking your RAM so you shouldn't change any RAM settings.


----------



## Kornowski

> You're PSU should be fine, just take a loot at the voltages to make sure that they arent too far off from what they should be. Such as the +12V being at 11v, etc.



Ok sure, Thanks, I'll take a look, but I think I remember them being fine.



> Now that I think about it, you're not going to be overclocking your RAM so you shouldn't change any RAM settings.



Alright, so I'll leave all the RAM stuff as it is, but still put the ratio to 2.0 (1:1) right?

Leave the timings and the voltages, should I put them on manual but leave them as they are so the BIOS doesn't change them and damage anything?


----------



## hermeslyre

If your only planing to mildly overclock then just do it! You probably wouldn't even need to bump to mch unless you're going higher.


----------



## Rambo

hermeslyre said:


> If your only planing to mildly overclock then just do it! You probably wouldn't even need to bump to mch unless you're going higher.



I think the extra +0.1v gives it that extra bit of stability - I read a few articles/reviews on the Gigabyte (D)S3 (granted, about 9 or 10 months ago) which stated that they couldn't get very far without upping the MCH voltage a tiny fraction. But Kornowski, feel free to try not bumping it up one notch if that's what you'd prefer. You can always up it if you find yourself unable to reach 338Mhz or find it becoming unstable.


----------



## Kornowski

Ok, Thanks for the replies, I'll try leaving it and then if there is any reason to up it a little, I'll try it. 

Sorry to be a pain:



> Alright, so I'll leave all the RAM stuff as it is, but still put the ratio to 2.0 (1:1) right?
> 
> Leave the timings and the voltages, should I put them on manual but leave them as they are so the BIOS doesn't change them and damage anything?


----------



## hermeslyre

Rambo said:


> I think the extra +0.1v gives it that extra bit of stability - I read a few articles/reviews on the Gigabyte (D)S3 (granted, about 9 or 10 months ago) which stated that they couldn't get very far without upping the MCH voltage a tiny fraction. But Kornowski, feel free to try not bumping it up one notch if that's what you'd prefer. You can always up it if you find yourself unable to reach 338Mhz or find it becoming unstable.



It may very be like that with a C2d.. All i knows it that i can oc my Athlon to 2.8 + no voltage bumps whatsoever. In fact I actually got stability problems when I tried raising the chipset volt +0.1. My chip/mobo may just be alergic to voltage.. i dunno


----------



## Rambo

hermeslyre said:


> It may very be like that with a C2d.. All i knows it that i can oc my Athlon to 2.8 + no voltage bumps whatsoever. In fact I actually got stability problems when I tried raising the chipset volt +0.1. My chip/mobo may just be alergic to voltage.. i dunno



You're using a completely different processor on a completely different board. 



			
				Kornowski said:
			
		

> Alright, so I'll leave all the RAM stuff as it is, but still put the ratio to 2.0 (1:1) right?
> 
> Leave the timings and the voltages, should I put them on manual but leave them as they are so the BIOS doesn't change them and damage anything?



Yep, that sounds about right.


----------



## Geoff

Rambo said:


> Well, in my opinion 6-6-6-18 is a bit much, but that's debatable, so... but yeah, Omega has it right, set the timings to higher settings, either the ones he suggested, or my personal preference is 5-5-5-15 (unless they are your stock timings, in which case, follow Omega's ones). Set the RAM overvoltage to +0.1v for now, and the MCH to +0.1v too. You should be fine up to 338 Mhz with that.
> 
> *Edit:*
> 
> Now that I think about it, you're not going to be overclocking your RAM so you shouldn't change any RAM settings.


I just said that to be on the safe side, since you can lower it later.  This way you dont have to worry about the RAM causing your system to become unstable.  I certainly didnt intend him to leave it at those timings 

And what do you mean he's not overclocking the RAM?  When you raise the FSB you also raise the memory speed.  You can set a divider but you can only go so low before even the lowest multiplier is higher the stock speeds.


----------



## Kornowski

Well...

I set the RAM Ratio to 1:1 (2.0) and set all the RAM options to manual but left them how they were...

I set the PCI-e frequency to 100Mhz and set all the system voltages to manual and left them how they were and set the CPU voltage to 1.32500v

I also disabled EIST and C1E.

I'm running @ 2240Mhz at the moment, and my idle temp has gone from 38c to 42c.

Before OC'ing my Northbridge was warm, but it has got hotter (it doesn't burn my finger), why is this, I haven't altered the voltage on it? Am I Ok to carry on?

My Super PI score has dropped by a second, so I don't know why it hasn't had a bigger performance increase, I'm going to see if I get more FPS now.


----------



## Rambo

[-0MEGA-];686972 said:
			
		

> I just said that to be on the safe side, since you can lower it later.  This way you dont have to worry about the RAM causing your system to become unstable.  I certainly didnt intend him to leave it at those timings
> 
> *And what do you mean he's not overclocking the RAM?*  When you raise the FSB you also raise the memory speed.  You can set a divider but you can only go so low before even the lowest multiplier is higher the stock speeds.



He changed the memory multiplier to from 2.5 to 2.0. Therefore, the speed it's running at is slower than it's stock speed. He plans to stop at around 340 MHz which will make it run at it's stock speed again. That's why he's not overclocking it .



Kornowski said:


> Well...
> 
> I set the RAM Ratio to 1:1 (2.0) and set all the RAM options to manual but left them how they were...
> 
> I set the PCI-e frequency to 100Mhz and set all the system voltages to manual and left them how they were and set the CPU voltage to 1.32500v
> 
> I also disabled EIST and C1E.
> 
> I'm running @ 2240Mhz at the moment, and my idle temp has gone from 38c to 42c.
> 
> Before OC'ing my Northbridge was warm, but it has got hotter (it doesn't burn my finger), why is this, I haven't altered the voltage on it? Am I Ok to carry on?
> 
> My Super PI score has dropped by a second, so I don't know why it hasn't had a bigger performance increase, I'm going to see if I get more FPS now.



Kornowski, just keep going until you hit around 340 MHz. Then your RAM will be running normal again (so at the minute, your not going to notice a heck of a lot of improvement, since you've overclocked your CPU but underclocked your RAM at the same time).


----------



## Kornowski

Well, I just got to 2390Mhz (I think it was that, It was just under 2400) and then I went to increase the FSB again from (I think) 320 to 330 and it powered off and came back on and then the screen didn't display anything, it said not a supported resolution, the PC tried to boot again and then just went back to stock settings, I'm stock at the moment...

When I was at 2.4 (ish) my FPS hadn't increased in RS: Vegas and my Super PI score went from 28 to 25 seconds.

However, it did go from about 20, to 35 in Cellfactor: Revolution.


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Well, I just got to 2390Mhz (I think it was that, It was just under 2400) and then I went to increase the FSB again from (I think) 320 to 330 and it powered off and came back on and then the screen didn't display anything, it said not a supported resolution, the PC tried to boot again and then just went back to stock settings, I'm stock at the moment...
> 
> When I was at 2.4 (ish) my FPS hadn't increased in RS: Vegas and my Super PI score went from 28 to 25 seconds.
> 
> However, it did go from about 20, to 35 in Cellfactor: Revolution.



Yeah, you probably want to up the MCH +0.1v to give it that little extra juice it needs. And in Cellfactor, that's a 75% increase!


----------



## Kornowski

My Northbridge was warmer than it used to be, I hadn't increased the voltage in it though, is it safe to carry on?

I didn't notice any increase at all in Rainbow Six though.


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> My Northbridge was warmer than it used to be, I hadn't increased the voltage in it though, is it safe to carry on?



Yeah, my Northbridge feels about 40*C. I have mine on +0.1.v with a fan blowing on it though.


----------



## Kornowski

Alright, So I will give it a go tomorrow...

I don't want to buy a fan or a new cooler to put on, rekon I'd need it?

Howcome you've lowered yours to 2.8 Rambo?


----------



## Geoff

Rambo said:


> He changed the memory multiplier to from 2.5 to 2.0. Therefore, the speed it's running at is slower than it's stock speed. He plans to stop at around 340 MHz which will make it run at it's stock speed again. That's why he's not overclocking it .


Oh I see.  I raised mine to almost 500Mhz FSB, which is why even on the lowest divider I was higher then stock speed.


----------



## Kornowski

So you think my Northbridge will be OK?

Is an OC of 2.4Ghz good?


----------



## Geoff

Kornowski said:


> So you think my Northbridge will be OK?
> 
> Is an OC of 2.4Ghz good?


it's alright, but nothing special.  You should be able to hit at least 2.8, most likely 3Ghz.


----------



## Kornowski

I didn't see any performance gain when @ 2.4Ghz compared to the 1.86Ghz at stock.

About my Northbridge, is it being warm (not burning my hand) Ok? Is there a way I can check the temps of it?


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> I didn't see any performance gain when @ 2.4Ghz compared to the 1.86Ghz at stock.
> 
> About my Northbridge, is it being warm (not burning my hand) Ok? Is there a way I can check the temps of it?



Warm = fine. Unbearably hot = bad. Slowly start taking it up to 2.8 GHz now. You won't regret it.


----------



## Kornowski

Ok, It's hot / warm, it doesn't burn me so I guess that's Ok.

How much hotter will it get if I add 0.1v to the MCH?

Is that all I should do, then put the FSB up some more?

Thanks


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Ok, It's hot / warm, it doesn't burn me so I guess that's Ok.
> 
> How much hotter will it get if I add 0.1v to the MCH?
> 
> Is that all I should do, then put the FSB up some more?
> 
> Thanks



Yeah, sounds right. What is the default voltage your RAM takes?


----------



## hermeslyre

Adding 0.1v to the MCH will increase heat little to none.


----------



## Kornowski

It's the same as your RAM isn't it?

http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Comp...ir+512MB+XMS2-5400+DDR2+SDRAM?productId=15664

There's the site, except I have a 1GB stick.



> Adding 0.1v to the MCH will increase heat little to none.



Thanks


----------



## Rambo

Ahh, ok, same RAM. That means that by default (without overclocking) you should be running your RAM overvoltage setting at +0.1v, since our RAM requires 1.9v (instead of the BIOS's default 1.8v).

So make sure you add that extra 0.1 volt to the MCH and RAM.


----------



## Kornowski

Ok Sure, Thanks a lot Rambo!

Howcome you've dropped yours from 3Ghz to 2.8Ghz?


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Ok Sure, Thanks a lot Rambo!
> 
> Howcome you've dropped yours from 3Ghz to 2.8Ghz?



Well, I know it's not much of a difference from 2.8 to 3.0 (that's 57 MHz extra on the RAM) but I just felt it was stabler at 2.8 GHz. I may take it up again actually, to see how it goes. But as of now, it's REALLY stable - hasn't crashed in months!


----------



## Kornowski

Ah right, Yeah, It's better to have it stable than running slightly faster... Mine hasn't crashed since I got it, Don't know how long it's been, but I haven't had it OC'ed.


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> Ah right, Yeah, It's better to have it stable than running slightly faster... Mine hasn't crashed since I got it, Don't know how long it's been, but I haven't had it OC'ed.



Well, there will be a time when it resets itself cause it's overclocked too much - and then you know it's time to up the voltage, or just go back down.


----------



## Kornowski

So I could test it with Orthos you mean, and if it passes stable, it could still restart some other time?

I may just shoot for 2.4Ghz or 2.6Ghz, I don't think I'd need / want to go any higher... I think I need to buy a new HSF before I try it again, because I was idleing at about 38c.

Howcome my RAM is working fine when it's 0.1v under the recomended?


----------



## Rambo

Kornowski said:


> So I could test it with Orthos you mean, and if it passes stable, it could still restart some other time?
> 
> I may just shoot for 2.4Ghz or 2.6Ghz, I don't think I'd need / want to go any higher... I think I need to buy a new HSF before I try it again, because I was idleing at about 38c.
> 
> Howcome my RAM is working fine when it's 0.1v under the recomended?



No, I meant as you overclock it, you may find it'll restart/crash and that's when you know to up the voltage or take the FSB down.

And your RAM works at 1.8v, but the recommended is 1.9v. It's up to you what you want to run it at, but if you want to overclock your RAM, it's best to put it on +0.1v at least.


----------



## Kornowski

Ah right, I get what you meant, thanks!

Alright, I'll give it a go, thanks man!


----------

