# Please help, Got my motherboard replacement, but Im having different problems now,



## wbt50

I finally got my replacement motherboard. But I'm having more problems now :/

After building everything. I started up my PC, It POST fine, but I got no display on my monitor. Checked every cable and everything.

What's wrong this time ? Sorry for dumping my problems on you but I fear I'm having a mental breakdown.


----------



## wolfeking

How do you know it post if you can not see anything on the monitor? Antilogic there. 

Try a different monitor.


----------



## spirit

You need to try a different monitor or try the graphics card in another PC.


----------



## wbt50

Well,it post since I get one short beep. I thought that's what to POST meant. Apologies.

I've taken out my hard drives, and I can see the display fine.

So the problem lies somewhere with the hard drives.


----------



## spirit

Hmm that's odd. How many disks do you have?


----------



## wolfeking

Reinstall the OS. Or Boot to a Linux disk and see if it sees the disk. If not, then your issue is with a disk, and you must RMA it.


----------



## wbt50

I've tried just my ssd in and it booted fine.
I guess its a problem with my HDD


----------



## wolfeking

Try WD Lifeguard and test the drive. Might be as simple as a bad drive.


----------



## spirit

I'm going to suggest you've got a bad HDD there. Try it in another PC and see if the same problem occurs.


----------



## wbt50

Problem solved.
I just switched the sata port between the both drives and it boots fine.
I guess Windows wanted everything as it was on my previous motherboard.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Oh btw, how come my RAM speed is 1366 when its meant to go at 1600 ?


----------



## spirit

You need to go and set your RAM speed in the BIOS most likely.


----------



## wbt50

Thought so.
I hope I'll be trouble free for a good time after this build. I swear I'm the most unlucky first time builder ever haha. We should create like a wbt50 problems thread or something ahah.

Thanks everyone here for all the help also. My PC would most likely be in a dumpster by now if it wasn't for you guys.


----------



## spirit

No problem, any time. Happy new year by the way.


----------



## wbt50

Thanks, you too.
New problem again however.

The performance of my PC is just pure crap. Every programme freezes and I get a BSOD(blue error screen) after a while. The error just shows up for a second and the computer turns it self off. Then, I have to take out my Sata cables and reapply them for windows to boot.
What's wrong now ? I'm guessing I have to reinstall windows again right ?


----------



## wbt50

Back to square one. I've unplugged all my drives and I got no display.


----------



## wbt50

This is scratching my head now.
I've cleared cmos. Started up with just CPU and RAM and using the onboard display and I get nothing on screen. The monitor detects the computer, but nothing displays.


----------



## wbt50

Just noticed something.
When i start the computer. A tiny white horizontal line (the one you get when the computer loads after starting) Flashes for a second on the screen.


----------



## spirit

Check your RAM with Memtest86 or start removing sticks one by one until the problems go away. Might be worth re-seating your sticks too.


----------



## wbt50

Is it possible to run memtest with no display ?

Also, perhaps updating the bios might work. Would you know if its possible to update it with no display ?


----------



## spirit

So you have absolutely no display at all now? Not even if you disconnect one of your hard drives?

The issue could be RAM. Remove one of your sticks and see if you get a display.


----------



## wbt50

No, nothing at all :/
Tried just the 1 stick in all 4 slots. Nothing at all


----------



## spirit

Try the other stick then.


----------



## wbt50

I tried both the sticks. Still nothing :/


----------



## spirit

Both sticks together or individually?

Reset the BIOS back to defaults by moving the BIOS jumper on your board (refer to your motherboard manual), then try again... Then remove your graphics card and try and use the onboard graphics.

I think the issue is either your graphics card or your RAM.


----------



## wbt50

Individually.
I moved the jumper and tried removing the battery. Still nothing.


----------



## wbt50

I don't think it's the Graphics Card, I've put my graphics card to the side for the tests, I've been using the onboard display.


----------



## spirit

Right OK so it could be motherboard, PSU or RAM related.

Do you have the standoffs installed underneath the motherboard?


----------



## wbt50

Yes,
All the standoffs are in the correct places and nothing is shorting the board, I'm certaint of that.


----------



## wbt50

This is all I get when I power on - 

The horizontal white line flashes for a second then it goes.


----------



## spirit

Looks like it won't boot into an OS... try reinstalling Windows.


----------



## wbt50

How can I reinstall windows ?

I got no display, I can't get into BIOS or anything. 

The Picture I showed before was without any hard drives installed, the horizontal line is only visible for a second then dissapears.


----------



## spirit

So it is POSTing and displaying when you have no hard drives connected. I think the issue could be your SATA controller then in which case there is something wrong with your board.

Sorry I thought the screenshot was what you got with HDDs connected.


----------



## wbt50

I have no display at all. Ive connected the drives and it still exacly the same.

Sorry, I might have confused you there, that picture is the same with drives or not.


----------



## spirit

I assume you get the same issue with a graphics card installed, yes?

This is really confusing me now, I'm not entirely sure what's wrong. Could be a number of things: board, RAM or CPU. Have you tried reseating your CPU? It's worth a try.


----------



## wbt50

Yeah, its the same with a graphics card. Is it worth trying to reseat the CPU, since I have a CM hyper 212 evo cooling it and its a pain to install/uninstall and the thermal paste.

I doubt it would be the CPU though since I could use the PC in windows for a short time yesterday.


----------



## spirit

I think your board is probably the problem... or your RAM. Any chance you can try the RAM in another machine?


----------



## wbt50

I could use the family computer but I'm not sure if it uses DDR3. The PC is a Compaq SG3-230UK. 

Also, there isn't any danger what so ever in trying it is there ? as in would it cause any damage to the PC. If I damage the system, my family wouldn't be too happy with me  They're pretty pissed with me as it is with all these computer problems.


----------



## wbt50

I tried again with the GPU this time. Still the same problem, but when I took both the 6 Pin power cables out. I had a display on the screen telling me to power down and insert power cables.


----------



## spirit

Yeah don't try and run the card without the power cables, you could damage your card, board and power supply by doing that.

Check first the computer uses DDR3. If you force your DDR3 RAM into a DDR2 board, you'll likely damage the board and your RAM. Before you put the sticks in, check to see if it even looks like they'll fit into the board.


----------



## wbt50

Tried the RAM in the other PC and it worked fine. 
Now what ? This is really strange :/
Can it really be that both of my motherboards are faulty afyer each other ?


----------



## spirit

It could well be that. I think your board is to blame if your RAM was working perfectly in the other PC.


----------



## wbt50

Could it be that something else isn't correct in the build ? I might have some trouble RMA this since it's 2 motherboards straight after each other.


----------



## wbt50

Also, I'm going to ask for a refund rather than a replacement board. What board do you suggest I get ?


----------



## spirit

I suggest you try a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H.

I think everything else is OK, unless your PSU is giving you issues, but I doubt it.


----------



## wbt50

If I get the new board. Is there any way of moving over my Windows 7 key to this motherboard since it's a 1 pc license.

Also, are my drives going to cause any issues since they already contain data from the previous motherboard ?


----------



## wolfeking

spirit said:


> I suggest you try a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H.
> 
> I think everything else is OK, unless your PSU is giving you issues, but I doubt it.


UD3H, not D3H.  That aside the p8z77-v is one of the better boards. 

Get a PSU tester and test it. Also helps to have a watt meter and test it with that.  I am willing to wager you have a issue with your PSU. That is one of the hardest problems in a computer to trace down. And seems even more likely since you have had issues across 2 boards.  RAM or PSU are top of the list to test.


----------



## spirit

GA-Z77X-D3H is a board http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/motherboards/intel1155z77chipset/ga-z77x-d3h.html it's cheaper than the UD3H http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/motherboards/intel1155z77chipset/ga-z77x-ud3h.html

Unless you were suggesting he gets the UD3H instead?

I am kind of surprised he's got issues two boards going, so yeah test it with an amp meter, didn't think of that earlier.

As for Windows 7... you may have to use the phone to activate it on a new board. Wait to speak to a real person and tell them what happened regarding your boards.


----------



## wbt50

After researching more about RAM failures, it seems very likely that this is what's causing the issues because when the system did display and boot to windows. I would often gets applications stop responding and eventually I would get the Windows STOP/BSOD error screen. The speed and performance of the system was just pure crap up to the point where it stopped working and I got the Windows error screen.

I'll install the RAM in my other computer tomorrow and run the memtest86.


----------



## spirit

OK, sounds like a plan. Yeah if you were getting BSODs it was probably down to your RAM.

Ah sorry for saying it could be so many things. Computers eh, what can ya do?


----------



## wolfeking

spirit said:


> GA-Z77X-D3H is a board http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/motherboards/intel1155z77chipset/ga-z77x-d3h.html it's cheaper than the UD3H http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/motherboards/intel1155z77chipset/ga-z77x-ud3h.html
> 
> Unless you were suggesting he gets the UD3H instead?


THe UD3H is much better board than the D3H. Only get a D3H if your really short on money. 



> I am kind of surprised he's got issues two boards going, so yeah test it with an amp meter, didn't think of that earlier.


Chances are that the issue is not the board if RMAing the board still has this many issues.  

I would bet first on the PSU and second on the memory. They are always the hardest problems to tie down. Memtest will give you an idea if the memory is good or not, but it is not error proof.  
PSU, Amp meter or watt meter would be the best way to test it. Make sure the readings line up with what is on the side of the PSU. Also test it with a volt meter (or multimeter set to 12V DC) and make sure your 12V, 5V, and 3.3V rails are all giving within .1V of what they are supposed to. Ubder volting lanes can lead to loads of issues, and failed boots.


----------



## spirit

Right OK here's what I think you should do.

Test your PSU using an amp meter and a volt meter. If you don't have one, buy one, they're handy to have around.

Then test your RAM with Memtest86 for at least 6-8 hours I'd say. If you get errors, you know where the problem potentially lies.


----------



## wbt50

spirit said:


> OK, sounds like a plan. Yeah if you were getting BSODs it was probably down to your RAM.
> 
> Ah sorry for saying it could be so many things. Computers eh, what can ya do?



Please, Don't be sorry. You've more of less responded to every question I have instantly all day today. I'm really thankfull. If you were charging, I'd be selling my blood by now


----------



## spirit

wbt50 said:


> Please, Don't be sorry. You've more of less responded to every question I have instantly all day today. I'm really thankfull. If you were charging, I'd be selling my blood by now



Haha thanks, it's nothing really.  any time! I just want you to get your system working!


----------



## wbt50

When I did boot to BIOS yesterday, I took a second to check if the voltage supply was good and it was fine. Nothing was more or less than 0.1V away. But I doubt the BIOS is completely correct when it comes to the PSU ?

I'll test the RAM tommorow. Hopefully that's what the problem is. If the RAM is fine, then I'll try and test the PSU. A friend of mine is self employed as an electrician, so he will probably lend me his Volt Meter and Amp Meter, let just hope I won't electrocute my self 

Cheers again for the help. Pray for my system haha.


----------



## spirit

Nah the volt and amp meters won't harm you, don't worry about that. 

If the RAM is the issue then it needs to sent back. I've had bad RAM in the past which has actually lead to lack of display and certainly a lot of crashes and blue screens.


----------



## wbt50

I ordered the RAM from scan.co.uk, and I've heard a list of stories of poor customer support and service and refusing to accept faulty items so I might have some trouble returning it. 

Should have just payed that little extra on a good friendly company eh 

First, let's just hope it is bad RAM


----------



## spirit

I advise against buying from Scan. I like Novatech myself, great customer service.

Hopefully if the issue is RAM it can be resolved easily.


----------



## wbt50

I'll most likely learn that lesson the hardway. Unfortunately, when buying I tend to ignore everything but the price


----------



## spirit

Yeah it's an easy mistake to make. The best places to buy are Novatech, Aria, Overclockers and maybe Dabs, though Dabs can sometimes be a bit slow to dispatch items. I usually get next day delivery with Novatech even when I haven't paid for next day delivery, which is nice.


----------



## wbt50

OK, I tried using the RAM from my old system in this build now, and nothing changed. It was exactly the same. Single short beep. No LED error light (except boot device LED) So I guess that cancels out RAM, or should I try the mem test ?


----------



## wolfeking

Run memtest on the RAM. Just because it works does not mean it is not bad.


----------



## wbt50

OK, Possible breakthrough.

Tried the "possible bad RAM" in my old system. Got RAM error beep code. 
Could it be that the RAM isn't compatible ? It's DDR3 and fits perfectly, but the system is 4 years old.


----------



## wbt50

After replacing the original RAM in my old system. 
Windows had to go through Windows start up repair and restore the PC to an earlier point.
So I guess it's bad RAM. But, how come there was no display when I tried the old RAM in this computer ?
And why doesn't the new motherboard beep if it's bad RAM ?


----------



## wbt50

This doesn't make sense at all now. If the RAM is bad, which it most likely is, how come that the RAM from my old computer. Which works fine, doesn't get any display on the screen ?

I just can't see me getting this system working now :/


----------



## wolfeking

It could be that it is just not compatible. 

Is there a light next to the MemOK button? If so, reset the UEFI and try again. Or you can try pushing the memOK button. It will set it to compatible settings when you do that.


----------



## wbt50

No light next to the mem ok button :/


----------



## wolfeking

Reset UEFI and retry. COuld be it is trying to boot off settings the old RAM does not support.


----------



## wbt50

By reseting UEFI, do you mean to clear CMOS ?


----------



## wolfeking

yes. Its the same thing.


----------



## wbt50

Done that and its exactly the same. POST fine with one short beep but no display.

What can I do now ?


----------



## wolfeking

Can you test the GPU on another system?


----------



## wbt50

I'm not using my GPU at the moment, I'm using the onboard display.


----------



## wolfeking

Try the GPU. It could be as simple as the onboard GPU is broken. Could also be that it is set to use PCIe for display.


----------



## wbt50

It's still the same with gpu on there :/


----------



## spirit

Memtest them, just to be sure.

Have you checked your PSU yet?


----------



## wolfeking

If it is not working with known functional memory, and the memory that was in it does not work in another machine, then I am calling it PSU.  Take the memory from the old machine and stick it back in the old machine. 

Chances are that you are looking at either overvolting from teh PSU, or undervolting causing damage.  Could also be a bad motherboard, but unlikely twice in a row.


----------



## wbt50

I can't test the PSU for atleast a couple of days.

Should I try the PSU from the old system ? Its a 380Watt lite one with a 24pin and a 4 pin instead of the 8pin the motherboard, but it should be enough to power it without the GPU right ?


----------



## wolfeking

should be. Try it and see if it does anything. 

though if your PSU is bad, you may have more than just a PSU to replace.


----------



## wbt50

Its too much of a hassle to try the other PSU now. The cables don't reach, I would have to take everything apart.


----------



## wbt50

What I don't understand is, how come my old PC beeps when I use the bad ram in it and the new motherboard doesn't.


----------



## wolfeking

It just depends on teh motherboard. Some will not beep, some will. YOu can never assume just because one computer part does something that they all do.  No 2 boards are the same, even with the same model number.


----------



## spirit

Probably because your new board doesn't have a speaker.


----------



## wbt50

spirit said:


> Probably because your new board doesn't have a speaker.



It does. I always get 1 single short beep which according to the manual is a successful POST.


----------



## wbt50

So what is there left for me to do ? Expect smashing it too bits with a hammer 

I can't test the PSU today by the way.


----------



## wolfeking

Until you can test the PSU with a watt/amp meter, then you are stuck testing each other component to make sure it is not something else. 

At this point it would be cheaper and easier for you to just take it to a shop nd have them figure out what is wrong with it.


----------



## wbt50

So take the whole computer ? Or just the PSU ?


----------



## wolfeking

The whole thing. Tell them you have done some testing, and tell them exactly what you have done so far. The shop diagnoses computers all day long, so they will be able to find it a lot easier than you could.


----------



## wbt50

That seems to be my only option. I just hope they won't charge me £70 to just say I need a new motherboard though.


----------



## spirit

Did you buy everything from one shop?


----------



## wbt50

I got half my stuff from amazon and other half from scan.co.uk


----------



## spirit

I'd be tempted to send it all back and explain that it didn't work. I don't know if they'd let you return everything, but you could try.


----------



## wbt50

I don't see them allowing me to be honest. I purchased all the items at the end of November and used all of it. I think it would cause more trouble to be honest.

I might aswell just drop it in a PC repair shop and let them deal with it. I just hope they won't just say that the motherboard is knackered without proper testing it and charging me a load for something I sort of knew already.


----------



## wolfeking

I don't think it is your motherboard to be honest. 

It is likely your PSU. It could be the board, but having 2 bad ones in a row is a statistical improbability.


----------



## spirit

Yeah I agree the issue is likely the PSU. It would be odd if you got two bad boards in a row.


----------



## wbt50

Could the RAM have destroyed the board ?

I find it hard being the PSU since it powered up the previous motherboard fine for 2 weeks and this system booted up a couple of times. 

I also don't understand how the RAM has suddenly gone bad. It was fine in the last system. Could the motherboard have take the RAM when it died ?


----------



## spirit

Both RAM and PSUs can suddenly go bad. It happens. RAM has suddenly gone wrong on me loads of times.


----------



## wbt50

I guess I'll just ask a PC store to test my PSU and RAM. Although it seems to me that the RAM is guaranteed dead. Could the RAM have destroyed the board ?


----------



## wolfeking

not likely. BUt your PSU could have destroyed both. Actually, when it goes, your PSU can take out anything plugged into it.


----------



## wbt50

Yeah, but I heard that Antec PSU's are made to stop other components dying. It was probably bollocks though haha


----------



## spirit

Must be the board or PSU then. It could be the CPU... maybe, but I doubt it. Is your heatsink installed correctly?


----------



## wbt50

Heat sink is in fine. The fans are running fine. I doubt its the CPU if I get a short beep during POST.


----------



## wbt50

Ill try and use the PSU from my other system to see if I have a display with that.

Edit - Unfortunately I can't do that. Both the cables from PSU don't reach. I would have to remove the PSU and it looks unremovable without breaking something along the way.

I've sent an email to scan.co.uk asking to return the RAM and the PSU.

Can I do anything until I get a response by scan ?


----------



## wbt50

I'm going to leave my computer to the side until I get a new motherboard, RAM and PSU. With that there shouldn't be any problems at all I hope.

Is it possible that my motherboard got corrupted somehow because I used the hard drive with all the previous data still on there ?


----------



## wolfeking

no. It is not possible. The data on your hard drive has little interaction with the BIOS. One or the other could be corrupt, but unlikely.


----------



## spirit

No your hard drive wouldn't have done anything to the motherboard.


----------



## wbt50

OK thanks, just to make sure haha.


----------



## wbt50

OK, I really need my system working ASAP now.

Will buying a new Motherboard,PSU and RAM guarrantee that it will be working ? (I'll return the rest and hope for a refund)


----------



## johnb35

Try this.

Reset your cmos by doing the following.

Unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, remove the cmos battery, press the power button on the case for 10 seconds, then wait 10 minutes.  Reinsert the battery, reconnect power.  Remove the HDD, cdroms and any other devices from the PSU.  Only have onboard video, 1 stick of ram, mouse, keyboard and try booting up.


----------



## wbt50

Tried it with no luck at all :/

If I just buy a new motherboard, PSU and RAM, is it more or less guaranteed to be working then ?


----------



## spirit

I'd bloody hell hope it works if you get a new board, RAM and power supply.


----------



## wbt50

Can you suggest me a reliable PSU and RAM ?


----------



## spirit

G.Skill RipJaws-X 1600MHz and good 600-650W PSU from Corsair, OCZ, XFX or Seasonic.


----------



## wbt50

Is it worth paying the extra to get 1866MHz RAM ?


----------



## spirit

If it's not much more then yeah go fir it, but if it's quite a bit more don't bother.

You won't see any difference between 1600 and 1866 most likely.


----------



## wbt50

Ordered new RAM and asked for the motherboard to be RMA'd. Can't afford a new PSU at the moment though.

I'll just try again with a new Gigabyte motherboard and RAM and hope it's not the PSU.

I doubt it's the PSU since after the first motherboard died, it still seemed to work fine when I had display on the second motherboard.


----------



## wbt50

Will this work to test the PSU ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Power-Suppl...5CT8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357242409&sr=8-1


----------



## johnb35

Thats basically the device I use.


----------



## wbt50

So will that test everything that could be wrong on the PSU ?

If this test is good, the PSU will be good ?


----------



## wbt50

Sorry to be a pain again 

Since I'll be using a new motherboard, what will happen to my drives since they contain data from the ASUS motherboard ?

Also, how do I contact Microsoft in order to receive a new license code because of my issues with the motherboard ?


----------



## johnb35

Are you getting the same model of motherboard or getting a totally different model?  If different model then you'll have to contact MS for a new code.

The only thing that tester won't test is when its under load.  It will only show you the voltages.


----------



## wbt50

johnb35 said:


> Are you getting the same model of motherboard or getting a totally different model?  If different model then you'll have to contact MS for a new code.
> 
> The only thing that tester won't test is when its under load.  It will only show you the voltages.



l'll be getting a different motherboard. I can't find any contact details to contact MS. Can you point me in a direction ? 

Also, will I have any problems with my hard drive since it contains data connected with my previous motherboard and the OS ?

Thanks for the help John.


----------



## johnb35

If the motherboard has a different chipset then the original you will need to do a fresh install of windows.  You will be given the number to contact microsoft when activation fails.


----------



## wbt50

johnb35 said:


> If the motherboard has a different chipset then the original you will need to do a fresh install of windows.  You will be given the number to contact microsoft when activation fails.



OK great. So when reinstalling Windows, that will format the drive correct ? 
And am I likely to get any trouble trying to get a new code ?


----------



## johnb35

You will have to choose to delete existing partitions, repartition and then install windows.  

As far as activation, it all depends on the person you talk to.  If you tell them your scenario, they should activate it with no problems.


----------



## wbt50

OK thank you.

I've dissasembled everything for the 2nd time now. Will be sending the motherboard back tonight along with the RAM. Ordered a Gigabyte board along with some RAM and a PSU tester.

I bloody hope this works the 3rd time!


----------



## wbt50

I tried booting it up with the board and working RAM on a cardboard box and it was exacly the same. Single beep, everything seems good but no display

I tried using my old PSU but the 24 Pin connector just would not go in. I used quite abit of force with no luck and I was afraid of damaging the board.


----------



## spirit

This is with your new board and setup?

If so, then it's a bad PSU you've got.


----------



## wbt50

spirit said:


> This is with your new board and setup?
> 
> If so, then it's a bad PSU you've got.



No no no, thats with my current setup haha. Sorry for the confusion.

My PSU tester is meant to arrive tommorow so I can know wether its a board or a PSU problem.


----------



## spirit

Ah OK, at least it's not your new setup.

Yeah test your PSU with the tester when you get it tomorrow.


----------



## wbt50

Should I connect something to the PSU when testing like my fan controllers to give the PSU some load ?


----------



## wolfeking

No. The tester only test voltages (12, 5 and 3.3). Needs no load as voltages don't change under load. 

What you need is a amp or watt meter to test the PSU. You can get 12V and still be out of spec.


----------



## wbt50

I just read that a bad PSU will have it voltage jump up and down when under load.

From my eyes, I doubt it the PSU that's causing me problems.
The first motherboard just shut down and died. If the PSU was the problem, how could it have powered up a 2nd motherboard and I got display from time to time in the first 30mins. And now the PSU is still powering up the motherboard completely fine, it's just there is no display... :/


----------



## wolfeking

1. You can not stand on what other PSU's do. There is no completely stable way of finding out a PSU is bad.   On average, amp readings are much more reliable than volt reading. 

2. No. That is not right. You say your board powers up and post, yet you have no display. You are going against yourself. You can not say it post if you don't get an image. 

3. A bad supply does not mean that it is completely unable to power the system. You could be getting 150 watts on the 12v Rail. Would still power a board, RAM, and CPU, but be well beyond shot. 

4. Test the PSU and see. Or as suggested and you agreed before. TAKE IT TO A SHOP!


----------



## StrangleHold

wolfeking said:


> Needs no load as voltages don't change under load.


What? Even high end power supplies voltage will vary under load. A bad 12V rail can drop significantly under load


----------



## wbt50

wolfeking said:


> 1. You can not stand on what other PSU's do. There is no completely stable way of finding out a PSU is bad.   On average, amp readings are much more reliable than volt reading.
> 
> 2. No. That is not right. You say your board powers up and post, yet you have no display. You are going against yourself. You can not say it post if you don't get an image.
> 
> 3. A bad supply does not mean that it is completely unable to power the system. You could be getting 150 watts on the 12v Rail. Would still power a board, RAM, and CPU, but be well beyond shot.
> 
> 4. Test the PSU and see. Or as suggested and you agreed before. TAKE IT 2TO A SHOP!



1. For me, it makes sense that the Voltage varies when under different load, and I also heard it many times when I have been researching.

2. I'm not going against my words. I've always said the same mate, I get a short single beep, which indicates a succesfull POST according to my manual, however I get no display. I've always said that...

3.If it power's up the board, RAM and CPU, then what's stopping me from seeing video ? (I'm not using a GPU)Also, As I said, I just find it hard to be a PSU problem, as it has worked great until my first motherboard died. And worked fine when I had display.

4. I have been in touch with the only Local PC shop in my area, They told me they would charge me £30 to test my PSU, and when I asked how would they test it, all they told me was they have a specialised tester to test it. That too me is just a PSU tester. Now I'm not happy paying £30 for someone else to do exacly what I can do.


----------



## wbt50

Is this a decent board over the P8Z77 - V ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-SK...55JE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1357320064&sr=8-2


----------



## spirit

Yes that's a great board there. If I were buying into Z77 now I'd probably get that board.


----------



## StrangleHold

Man, alot of post in this thread. You say when you boot your getting a single beep, then a blinking cursor for a few seconds and then it goes away?


----------



## wbt50

StrangleHold said:


> Man, alot of post in this thread. You say when you boot your getting a single beep, then a blinking cursor for a few seconds and then it goes away?



Yeah, Single beep. The blinking cursor is barely visible. It blinks for half a second. You have to stare at the screen to see it


----------



## StrangleHold

You sure when you reset the bios you put the pin back right or removed it? Plus pull your CPU 4/8 pin power connector off and make sure none of the metal connectors are pushed back into the harness. If you dont have the CPU power connector plugged in it will do exactly the same thing.

Plus do the same with your 24 pin motherboard connector, make sure none of the metal connectors are not pushed back into it to far


----------



## wbt50

StrangleHold said:


> You sure when you reset the bios you put the pin back right or removed it? Plus pull your CPU 4/8 pin power connector off and make sure none of the metal connectors are pushed back into the harness. If you dont have the CPU power connector plugged in it will do exactly the same thing.
> 
> Plus do the same with your 24 pin motherboard connector, make sure none of the metal connectors are not pushed back into it to far



Sorry, I lost you, what you you mean ?

I've pretty much tried everything.
I've taken out the battery overnight and tried it while the motherboard was outside the PC.


----------



## wolfeking

wbt50 said:


> 1. For me, it makes sense that the Voltage varies when under different load, and I also heard it many times when I have been researching.


The voltage is only a small part of it. if you have a 60 amp/720 Watt 12V rail, it can successfully put out 12.1V @ 3 Amps and still be bad. It will pass a PSU tester like that too, as 99% of PSU testers test the V not the Amp/Watt. You need at least the V and Amp or V and W. amp*12=watt, so if you have one or the other, you get the other number. 



> 2. I'm not going against my words. I've always said the same mate, I get a short single beep, which indicates a succesfull POST according to my manual, however I get no display. I've always said that...


BS. If you get a sound, your post test has found an issue. That aside, you can not say you have passed POST unless you get a picture of some kind. You can yet a single beep all day long and still fail POST, but the way you are saying it, you won't know as you say it is successful. 



> 3.If it power's up the board, RAM and CPU, then what's stopping me from seeing video ? (I'm not using a GPU)Also, As I said, I just find it hard to be a PSU problem, as it has worked great until my first motherboard died. And worked fine when I had display.


Exactly. You find it hard to be one. You are joking yourself. Just listen to what you say here. "It worked before therefore it can not be broke now".  You don't even stop to think that it could have been PSU all along. When they stop working they start breaking other components too. The Motherboard is one of the most sensitive components. But assume otherthings and just rebuild your computer unti lyou realize teh PSU is all that is left, as long as it floats your boat. 



> 4. I have been in touch with the only Local PC shop in my area, They told me they would charge me £30 to test my PSU, and when I asked how would they test it, all they told me was they have a specialised tester to test it. That too me is just a PSU tester. Now I'm not happy paying £30 for someone else to do exacly what I can do.


Or it could be a watt/amp meter. You are assuming they only use a single tool, and are assuming that the PSU is not the issue. Test it yourself, but you need an amp/watt meter, and a PSU tester. Both of which you could have gotten immediately from the local hardware store.


----------



## StrangleHold

wbt50 said:


> Sorry, I lost you, what you you mean ?
> 
> I've pretty much tried everything.
> I've taken out the battery overnight and tried it while the motherboard was outside the PC.


 
Pull the 8 pin CPU and the 24 pin Motherboard power connectors off the board. Look inside them and make sure none of the metal connectors that go on the boards pins are pushed too far up inside and not making contact.


----------



## wbt50

StrangleHold said:


> Pull the 8 pin CPU and the 24 pin Motherboard power connectors off the board. Look inside them and make sure none of the metal connectors that go on the boards pins are pushed too far up inside and not making contact.



ahhh, OK.

Checked that and they all seem fine.


----------



## wbt50

Wolfeking: According to the manual of my motherboard one short beep means succesfull POST test. Therefore, I believe I'm right to assume that my motherboard passes the POST test. THAT is not me speaking there, that is my motherboard manual speaking.

Also, I never said that "It worked before therefore it can not be broke now". I said, it powered my previous motherboard for 2 weeks great. And it powered my replacement motherboard while I got display perfectly. The way I see it, if the PSU was at fault when the 1st motherboard died, how could it start up this motherboard fine ? I'm not saying I'm right and your wrong here, perphaps you are correct. But from my point of view, it's most likely not a PSU problem


----------



## StrangleHold

If you have another power supply? If so just set it beside the computer. Unplug all the connections of the installed Power supply. Hook up the backup supply 8 pin CPU and 24 pin, plus the harddrive connector, plug the backup one into the wall, hit the power button and see what happens.


----------



## wbt50

OK, I tested the PSU and everything looked normal.

The -12 reading was 11.5, that was the only one I'm not sure with. Plus I'm not sure what is a PG. It read out at 310 on mine.

Otherwise everything looked fine.


----------

