# finished 1st PC-build yesterday, but won't turn on



## demonikal (Feb 7, 2011)

Here's the specs of everything:

- Ultra eTorque Mid-Tower case
- Ultra LSP 550W Pro PSU
- ASUS M4A78T-E mobo
- AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition 3.2GHz (AM3)
- AMD AM3 Heat Sink/Fan
- Corsair XMS3 DDR3 DIMM 4GB with heat sink
- Seagate Barracuda LP SATA 1TB HDD
- Lite-On SATA DVD DL
- 2x Thermaltake Thunderblade 120mm LED chassis fans

I read all the manuals that came with everything. Went step-by-step. After all the power supply connections were in place, I plugged the cord into the power supply and then into my surge protector, flipped the switch to the "|" position and pushed the power button...nothing. The green light on the mobo turned on when I flipped the PSU on after connecting it to surge protector, but nothing happened after pushing the power button. None of the fans spun, nor hard drive. I tried holding the power button in for as long as 10 seconds and still nothing.

A hardware defect somewhere in there perhaps?

Please help. I spent a lot of money on this build so it would last me for years and years to come and now I'm so frustrated that it won't start up, I'm thinking I should take a few days away from it before I try to approach it again.

Thank you!


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## Benny Boy (Feb 7, 2011)

Are the 20/4 and 4/8 pins seated all the way? Did you check all the connections?
Try building it on cardboard. Maybe the PSU is doa. Exchange it for a better brand.


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## Rooah (Feb 7, 2011)

Were you standing on carpeting while building the pc?

Sometimes if you're standing on carpet or the like, you can build up static electricity and short something out.

try re-seating all the connections to make extra sure they are all seated properly


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## voyagerfan99 (Feb 7, 2011)

Could be a bad PSU. If the reseat of everything doesn't work try another PSU.


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## jamesd1981 (Feb 7, 2011)

i build my systems on the carpet all the time, you should always use anti-static products better safe than cheap !


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## Nanobyte (Feb 7, 2011)

The first thing to check is that the PSU is OK.  You can try the paper clip test (google it, example) and also check the voltages with a digital multimeter.  You can find the power connector pinout here or here.  Note that on ATX2 supplies there are 4 extra connections.  Check that you have the power button connected to the MB power on, not the reset.


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## demonikal (Feb 8, 2011)

Nanobyte said:


> The first thing to check is that the PSU is OK.  You can try the paper clip test (google it, example) and also check the voltages with a digital multimeter.  You can find the power connector pinout here or here.  Note that on ATX2 supplies there are 4 extra connections.  Check that you have the power button connected to the MB power on, not the reset.



I was thinking it might be the connections from the the power button cuz it's the one thing I wasn't familiar with. I'll check it's not connected to the MB reset. Thanks.

And I built the PC on a table, floor made of ceramic tile. I used an Ultra wireless anti-static wrist strap. Everything is grounded to this "metal box" touching your wrist (almost looks like a square wrist watch).


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## Nanobyte (Feb 8, 2011)

If you got the power and reset buttons the wrong way round, the quickest check is to press the reset and see if the PC starts.


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## demonikal (Feb 16, 2011)

Nanobyte said:


> If you got the power and reset buttons the wrong way round, the quickest check is to press the reset and see if the PC starts.



I pushed the reset button over and over and then pressed the power button. Nothing. I followed the mobo's directions to the T on where to connect which wire to what.

Power supply problem then? Everything is seated. Power supply is switched on. There is still a green light on the mobo lit up. I have a Diablotek PSU for the PC I'm using now. It's a 500W. I'll try that tonight.


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## Nanobyte (Feb 16, 2011)

Another PSU may indicate if that is the issue.  You should check out the original PSU when it is removed with the paper clip test.  The unit should power up and the fan should run.


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## Drenlin (Feb 17, 2011)

If the on/off switch on the back in the "on" position?

Also, if you have a good PSU it won't have a red voltage selector on the back, but just in case it does have one, make sure it's set at 115V.


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## winchcomputer (Feb 17, 2011)

correct. bridge the two wires, normally green and any other black wire (check the pinout)

if your psu powers on you have trouble elsewhere.

i have purchased more than 20 (at least) Cases that have come with DOA PSU's

if a PC doesnt power on at all, first thing to check is the psu. test it with it unplugged from all the drives, mobo ect. if possible, test it with a fan or two connected. they dont like being run with no load


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## winchcomputer (Feb 17, 2011)

Drenlin said:


> If the on/off switch on the back in the "on" position?
> 
> Also, if you have a good PSU it won't have a red voltage selector on the back, but just in case it does have one, make sure it's set at 115V.



why didnt i think of that? fantastic. THAT would be the first thing to check 

over in australia we use 240v. i have purchased psu's in the past that have been set for 115/120, and not realised, and had sparks and flames come out...


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## winchcomputer (Feb 17, 2011)

oh and make sure that the clear cmos jumper is in its "normal" position, and not the clear position, because the mobo wont boot like that


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## demonikal (Feb 21, 2011)

winchcomputer said:


> oh and make sure that the clear cmos jumper is in its "normal" position, and not the clear position, because the mobo wont boot like that



Thanks. Yeah, the CMOS jumper is in the default position. I checked it's configuration on the mobo with what it's supposed to look like in default position in the motherboard's manual.


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## demonikal (Feb 21, 2011)

Drenlin said:


> If the on/off switch on the back in the "on" position?
> 
> Also, if you have a good PSU it won't have a red voltage selector on the back, but just in case it does have one, make sure it's set at 115V.



Yeah, it's set at 115V. I'm gonna try the paper-clip test first.


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## demonikal (Feb 21, 2011)

Nanobyte said:


> Another PSU may indicate if that is the issue.  You should check out the original PSU when it is removed with the paper clip test.  The unit should power up and the fan should run.



Just checked my original order of the barebone kit on Tigerdirect.com. Mainly wanted to see, just for future reference, what the warranties on the PSU and mobo were, since everyone here is saying the problem can only be one of those. Fortunately, the limited warranty is 36 months parts and 36 months labor. I know if the mobo is faulty, I'm sure ASUS might try to say that I was overclocking and that's how things got messed up and they won't cover it. But anyway... I clicked on the motherboard on my invoice and the old page on Tigerdirect for this mobo says "THIS ITEM IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE." That could explain a lot. I read several reviews. Seems several people had problems with their builds not starting up after pushing the power button too and they had different hardware than my kit.

Btw, I know "DOA" means non-working, but what does "DOA" stand for?

Thanks. I'll keep everyone posted on what happens after the paper-clip test.


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## StrangleHold (Feb 21, 2011)

Did you put the standoffs under the board in the right places? DOA= Dead on Arrival


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## demonikal (Feb 21, 2011)

StrangleHold said:


> Did you put the standoffs under the board in the right places? DOA= Dead on Arrival



Standoffs? I don't know what standoffs are, but the ASUS mobo didn't come with anything except itself, 4 SATA cables, CD, manual, and the thing that I plugged the PWR RESET, etc. cables into which fit onto the board.

I'm not sure if this makes any difference, but the screws that the case came weren't long enough to make it from the top of the mobo to the threads in the screw holes. I was only able to fit 4 on the right-hand side of the mobo. I didn't think it mattered. Just as long as it was in place and not sagging while the PC was standing upright.

So, what are standoffs? Thanks for the DOA definition.


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## Nanobyte (Feb 21, 2011)

Standoffs are spacers that hold the MB clear of the metal chassis.  You thread the mounting screws through the standoffs.  Without standoffs you can have a dead short.

Edit:  Asus don't mention standoffs in any of their manuals.  I have an Asus MB - pre-installed so I can't tell you if they have built-in standoffs.


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## StrangleHold (Feb 21, 2011)

demonikal said:


> Standoffs? I don't know what standoffs are, but the ASUS mobo didn't come with anything except itself, 4 SATA cables, CD, manual, and the thing that I plugged the PWR RESET, etc. cables into which fit onto the board.
> 
> I'm not sure if this makes any difference, but the screws that the case came weren't long enough to make it from the top of the mobo to the threads in the screw holes. I was only able to fit 4 on the right-hand side of the mobo. I didn't think it mattered. Just as long as it was in place and not sagging while the PC was standing upright.
> 
> So, what are standoffs? Thanks for the DOA definition.


 
Thats your problem then.
Standoff





You only put them under the grounded holes on the motherboard.


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## demonikal (Feb 22, 2011)

StrangleHold said:


> Thats your problem then.
> Standoff
> 
> 
> ...



I had a feeling that was what a standoff was. When I took apart my Gateway to see if I could put back together, it had those. But the PC I'm using now, an HP Pavilion, does not have them. I'll be sure to buy them in the next few days and let you know what happens. Thanks!!


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## xMKproductions (Feb 22, 2011)

You should have got standoffs with your case, i had some already fitted into my case had to add 3 more for a larger motherboard.


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## demonikal (Feb 23, 2011)

xMKproductions said:


> You should have got standoffs with your case, i had some already fitted into my case had to add 3 more for a larger motherboard.



How do I know what size to get? It looks like on Tigerdirect.com there are two sizes: ones with longer heads (height of 8.5mm) and ones with shorter heads (height of 6.5mm).


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## Pants (Feb 23, 2011)

demonikal said:


> How do I know what size to get? It looks like on Tigerdirect.com there are two sizes: ones with longer heads (height of 8.5mm) and ones with shorter heads (height of 6.5mm).



Some chassis manufacturers have been known to use some strange proprietary standoffs, but from personal experience and looking at pictures of the inside of your case I'd say you need #6-32.

It's really strange that your case didn't come with them, that's almost always something they include. It's an $80 case, I really can't see them forgetting to put in some $0.20 jackscrews.

P.S. Make sure to tighten the standoffs to the chassis really well with a nut driver or pliers. They sometimes have a tendency of tweaking the board when you go to remove them if you don't. Also, use only the same amount of standoffs as you have holes in your motherboard; no more, no less!


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## Benny Boy (Feb 23, 2011)

Don't overtighten the mb.


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## mrgcat (Feb 23, 2011)

take all the power connectors out then plug them back in again. Also try plugging it into a different socket incase you aren't getting enough power. 

Hope I helped


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## demonikal (Feb 23, 2011)

xMKproductions said:


> You should have got standoffs with your case, i had some already fitted into my case had to add 3 more for a larger motherboard.



Ok, I must be blind. They were in a separate bag that I put inside the box the case came in after I sorted through the screws. Question though...there are 10 silver ones and 2 black ones. The black standoffs look just a tad bigger than the silver standoffs. Threads look the same on the inside.


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## demonikal (Feb 23, 2011)

Benny Boy said:


> Don't overtighten the mb.



Will do. Thanks!


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## demonikal (Feb 23, 2011)

mrgcat said:


> take all the power connectors out then plug them back in again. Also try plugging it into a different socket incase you aren't getting enough power.
> 
> Hope I helped



You helped a lot. Everyone helped. I'm gonna put on my wireless anti-static wrist strap and go to it as soon as I shut down this computer, so I can try starting it up ASAP. I'll come back with results. Thanks!


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## Pants (Feb 23, 2011)

demonikal said:


> Ok, I must be blind. They were in a separate bag that I put inside the box the case came in after I sorted through the screws. Question though...there are 10 silver ones and 2 black ones. The black standoffs look just a tad bigger than the silver standoffs. Threads look the same on the inside.



The ASUS M4A78T-E is an ATX standard motherboard, and thus requires 9 standoffs to be installed. 

I looked around for a good image of the motherboard tray on the Ultra E-Torque, and found the image below in the Modders-inc review.

As you can see, the tray has a recess in it (likely for rigidity). I have marked the proper locations to install the silver standoffs for your motherboard (in GREEN), and purely for your information, the locations where the black standoffs would be used in the event your board was a different form-factor (in RED).

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

-Chris


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## demonikal (Feb 23, 2011)

pants said:


> the asus m4a78t-e is an atx standard motherboard, and thus requires 9 standoffs to be installed.
> 
> I looked around for a good image of the motherboard tray on the ultra e-torque, and found the image below in the modders-inc review.
> 
> ...



success!!!


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## Pants (Feb 23, 2011)

Fantastic! 

So everything is working well so far?


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## demonikal (Feb 23, 2011)

Pants said:


> Fantastic!
> 
> So everything is working well so far?



Well, it passes POST and recognizes the motherboard and CPU. Didn't hit delete though to go into BIOS. Gonna do that tomorrow. Been up all night for other reasons and I'm bushed. I'll have a clear head tomorrow morning and then I'll go at it. Btw, I didn't need the black standoffs. There were no corresponding holes on the mobo for them. Made sure the rest of the standoffs were good and tight with a 5mm socket and my Snap-on ratchet. Only tightened the screws on the mobo until I felt resistance, not even that really.

Thanks for all the help!


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## Pants (Feb 23, 2011)

Yeah, I know you didn't need them. I just figured I'd let you know what they were for.

Hopefully all goes well tomorrow, be sure and post your progress


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## StrangleHold (Feb 23, 2011)

Standoffs can be a wonderful thing. lol


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## techout1 (Feb 23, 2011)

check to see if the case pins are in the right spot


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## demonikal (Feb 23, 2011)

StrangleHold said:


> Standoffs can be a wonderful thing. lol



Well, they are to me now that I realize those littler buggers were the only thing keeping me from powering on my PC successfully, and my first PC build at that. I started this thread on the 7th. That's more than 2 1/2 weeks of people graciously giving me advice on...if it's not the motherboard, it's the power supply...if it's not the power supply, it's the motherboard. Replacing the psu wouldn't have been a huge deal in terms of cost, but of course my being somewhat of a "glass-is-half-empty" kind of guy, I feared for the worst and obviously the most expensive. Thanks to you, I now have a functioning PC and hopefully I can solve all of someone's qualms in the future by asking if they put the standoffs in


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## StrangleHold (Feb 23, 2011)

Just glad you got it going. Like said let us know how it goes.


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## Drenlin (Feb 24, 2011)

I can't believe nobody asked that before now 

Sorry about that


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## linkin (Feb 24, 2011)

Check your front panel connections, in your motherboard's manual. They are easy to get wrong.

Got the stand offs installed into the case?

Check all power connectors.


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## StrangleHold (Feb 24, 2011)

linkin said:


> Check your front panel connections, in your motherboard's manual. They are easy to get wrong.
> 
> Got the stand offs installed into the case?
> 
> Check all power connectors.


 
What are you talking about. He got it figured out (standoffs)


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## linkin (Feb 24, 2011)

Oh right, I didn't read the entire thread... Just woke up


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## demonikal (Feb 26, 2011)

StrangleHold said:


> Just glad you got it going. Like said let us know how it goes.



Didn't spend a lot of time in the BIOS, but it looks like it wants me to enter in the specific values for everything instead of using Auto (which I guess would mean Auto-detect), i.e. the voltage for the CPU. I know the information likely came with the AMD box, but this is going to be a lot more fun than just putting the PC's hardware together. And I'm not being sarcastic about the "fun" part. I can't wait to do another PC build. Too bad money doesn't grow on trees.

One thing that is not mentioned in the ASUS mobo manual though is if I am supposed to install my OS first...in this case Windows Vista Professional x64 Full Edition (trial copy) and then immediately after Windows 7 Professional x64 Upgrade Edition...or if I do all the BIOS changes first and/or if I install all the drivers with the CD that came with the mobo. Also, it says on one page that downloading the latest BIOS from ASUS might "screw things up" (my words) and then in the next page they talk about how to d/L the latest BIOS. What the hell?


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