# Car sound system



## Jack Bauer

I was thinking of buying a home theatre system but scrapped that idea.  Now I am thinking of getting a system for my car.  

Do these look good?
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...y_id=10&item_id=108278&locale=en_US&p_status=
 two of these

and this amp
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...y_id=20&item_id=108228&locale=en_US&p_status=

now is there anything else i need to get?

what kind of enclosure should i get?


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## INTELCRAZY

Looks pretty good, MTX is good stuff, too. I have a rich friend that has 2 Jackhammers(MTX) in the back of his Escalade, he set off a bank alarm with them. Those are 22" subs, they are friggin awesome.


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## heyman421

Jack Bauer said:


> I was thinking of buying a home theatre system but scrapped that idea.  Now I am thinking of getting a system for my car.
> 
> Do these look good?
> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...y_id=10&item_id=108278&locale=en_US&p_status=
> two of these
> 
> and this amp
> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...y_id=20&item_id=108228&locale=en_US&p_status=
> 
> now is there anything else i need to get?
> 
> what kind of enclosure should i get?



RF makes good amps, but bad subs.

Plus, if you're just powering a subwoofer with it, there's better power/$ if you go with a class-D amp.

I'd think about a single type-r 12" in 2.5 cubic feet tuned to ~35hz with anywhere from 500-1000 watts, and you'll be 100x better off than with that punch garbage.


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## heyman421

INTELCRAZY said:


> Looks pretty good, MTX is good stuff, too. I have a rich friend that has 2 Jackhammers(MTX) in the back of his Escalade, he set off a bank alarm with them. Those are 22" subs, they are friggin awesome.



You are without a doubt lying your ass off.

Those speakers are over $7k a piece.

You show me a picture of your friend's car, and i'll resign from this forum TONIGHT.

I *DARE* you to prove me wrong.


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## INTELCRAZY

Okay, let me get a pix on my phone Monday after school, gimme ur email. It's a cream white 2006 Cadillac Escalade, his dad owns*************


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## heyman421

just post them here


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## INTELCRAZY

Read that, that is what he owns, gimme 'til Monday.

Wait my bad, it's a 2007 Escalade, the new body style. Since you want to see it so bad, you better hope he drives it and not his XLR.


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## footballstevo75

heyman421 said:


> You are without a doubt lying your ass off.
> 
> Those speakers are over $7k a piece.
> 
> You show me a picture of your friend's car, and i'll resign from this forum TONIGHT.
> 
> I *DARE* you to prove me wrong.



I really wanna see those pics too, so just post em up on here. The only problem is proving that he took the picture, not just some google search


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## INTELCRAZY

I TXT'd him and he sent me these back, he took these after it was cleaned Friday. I am assuming with his phone the pic quality is bad.


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## Froboy7391_99

Let's see the jackhammers


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## JlCollins005

exactly my ass he has 2 jackhammers in that for one thing he would have to remove all the rear seats, and have custom mounts, as far ur ? jack i prefer kicker Subs they are much better than rockford or mtx just a bit more in price, i had 2 kicker comps 10" in my s10 rated 800 watt peak each, bridged off of an mtx 350 watt amp blew my buddies 12" mtx 1000 watt peak subs away and my buddies 12" audiobahns also, but maybe a  capacitor would be something to think about


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## Dual_Corex2

Ok.  Being an audioholic, none of the options here are good.  MTX and Audiobahn is horrible quality all around, RF is way overpriced.  

If you want a good starter system, i suggest this:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6493_Pioneer+Premier+TS-W126DVC.html#

If you get 2 of them, wire in a 1 ohm configuration, if you dont know how i can help with that as well, and get this amp:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6556_Hifonics+Titan+TXi+7506.html

That would sound alot better, alot louder, and way more bang for your buck then any Punch subwoofers.


Also, your gonna want to get a nice size ported enclosure, one tuned to 38hz would sound good.

You wont need a cap, if your alt is a good size (mine is 95amps and its fine, im running about 1500watts RMS total in my car with 2 amps) then you will have no problem providing you ground the amp good.  I made the mistake of not grounding my amp good enough and it stopped working one day, took me forever to figure out what was wrong then i grounded it correctly and to the frame rather then just some random metal.


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## INTELCRAZY

Alright......speak as you wish, I don't care. That Escalade is an ESV(longer wheelbase), he just doesn't use the 3rd row, he removed the seats. I will reveal the truth sometime. You guys crack me up, just b/c there are a lotta scams and bad info on here doesn't mean everyone is BS'ing you.


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## Jack Bauer

I was thinking of getting these kicker compVR subs it says that it is 400 watts rms does that mean for both subs or 400 watts rms for each sub

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Spec...6/rpem/ccd/productDetailSpecification.do#tabs


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## Jack Bauer

I am thinking of getting this amp to is this a good one and are the subs above this post any good?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage...t&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1141762928199


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## Dual_Corex2

That would pry be OK.  Kickers round subs usually have pretty good quality.  However, you can get WAY better prices for them online.  $400 for a pair in a box is outragous.  I spent about $400 on my whole subwoofer setup alone amps, box, and subwoofer altogether.

I would shop at sonic electronix, iv seen they have lower prices then any place iv been on the net.


That amp is way overpriced, i paid $270 for my 1200 true watts amp, which is about double the output of that amp......

Your gonna save a fortune shopping online and will find better stuff.


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## Jack Bauer

Dual_Corex2 said:


> That would pry be OK.  Kickers round subs usually have pretty good quality.  However, you can get WAY better prices for them online.  $400 for a pair in a box is outragous.  I spent about $400 on my whole subwoofer setup alone amps, box, and subwoofer altogether.
> 
> I would shop at sonic electronix, iv seen they have lower prices then any place iv been on the net.
> 
> 
> That amp is way overpriced, i paid $270 for my 1200 true watts amp, which is about double the output of that amp......
> 
> Your gonna save a fortune shopping online and will find better stuff.



What are some good brands for subs and amps?  I was looking on ebay and it was a lot cheaper so I think I am going to buy there.


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## INTELCRAZY

I like Alpine amps, Sony Xplod stuff is decent for a budget.


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## JlCollins005

xplod sucks, kicker are good but like dual said find them cheaper online, try www.cmttrading.com


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## Dual_Corex2

JlCollins005 said:


> xplod sucks, kicker are good but like dual said find them cheaper online, try www.cmttrading.com



I wouldnt use that site, i looked at some products, overpriced.

Id use https://www.sonicelectronix.com/index.php

Iv had good experience with Pioneer Premier subwoofers, they can take more power then rated (not a whole lot, but at least its better then most cheap stuff) and for the money they sound really good.  

Alpine also does make good subwoofers, Kicker Comps, RE and Fi Audio (very expensive but almost top of the line),  Dayton Audio, Digital Designs, Diamond Audio, SoundStream.  Those are all great subwoofer brands.

As for amps, HiFonics is the best iv seen, next to JL and JBL, Alpine, Kicker, US Amps, and Orion.


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## heyman421

Alpine does make excellent amps.

I wouldn't touch sony car audio, tho.

And The Kickers are ok...  I would honestly get one good speaker instead of two crappy speakers, tho, like i tried telling you on the last page.

Because you're going to be getting them loud maybe 20% of the time, but the rest of the time, you're going to want something that SOUND DECENT!

I still say get a type-r 12, and drop it in [email protected], and you'll have something loud, that will also sound quite nice, and i've used both kicker and alpine in the past, so i'm not being biased.

2 12" type-x's in 3.0 cubes each @ 30hz with a hifonics BXi2000D (SQL setup)






2 15" L7 in 9 cubic feet @ 38hz with the same amp (SPL setup)













and this is how highly i regarded the Kickers






Trust me, getting loud is fun once in a while, but in the long run you're going to wish you went with something that sounds good, cause you're gonna have to listen to it every day.

Here's my next project  

15" strokers for the back




and custom 10" components for the doors 





This should sound good WHILE being loud.  I got tired of tradeoffs.


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## Dual_Corex2

heyman421 said:


> Alpine does make excellent amps.
> 
> I wouldn't touch sony car audio, tho.
> 
> And The Kickers are ok...  I would honestly get one good speaker instead of two crappy speakers, tho, like i tried telling you on the last page.
> 
> Because you're going to be getting them loud maybe 20% of the time, but the rest of the time, you're going to want something that SOUND DECENT!
> 
> I still say get a type-r 12, and drop it in [email protected], and you'll have something loud, that will also sound quite nice, and i've used both kicker and alpine in the past, so i'm not being biased.
> 
> 2 12" type-x's in 3.0 cubes each @ 30hz with a hifonics BXi2000D (SQL setup)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 15" L7 in 9 cubic feet @ 38hz with the same amp (SPL setup)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this is how highly i regarded the Kickers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trust me, getting loud is fun once in a while, but in the long run you're going to wish you went with something that sounds good, cause you're gonna have to listen to it every day.
> 
> Here's my next project
> 
> 15" strokers for the back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and custom 10" components for the doors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should sound good WHILE being loud.  I got tired of tradeoffs.



Now how could i forget Cerwin Vega? lol.  

Heres what i used to have for a starter system:

Single 12" Sony Xplod XS-L1237 in a 1.8cu slot ported box tuned @ 32hz for LOW bass!  Pwered by a Sony Xplod 165watt x 2 @ 4 ohm, 250watt x 1 @ 4 ohm briged amp.





And this is what i have now....

Single 12" Pioneer Premier 3000SPL 1000watt RMS 1 ohm subwoofer in the same enclosure powered by a HiFonics BXi1206D 1200watt RMS @ 1 ohm amp


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## INTELCRAZY

How do you know Xplod sucks? Did your cousin's uncle's cousin tell you?  I have never seen anyone, including myself, have a bad experience with Sony, I will say they are not the best. But, never failed and they sound pretty good, my mirrors are shaking constantly.


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## Dual_Corex2

INTELCRAZY said:


> How do you know Xplod sucks? Did your cousin's uncle's cousin tell you?  I have never seen anyone, including myself, have a bad experience with Sony, I will say they are not the best. But, never failed and they sound pretty good, my mirrors are shaking constantly.



Sony certainly isnt bottom of the line, but they are lightyears away from the top.  For the price, you can find better....believe me.  The new "P5 turbo cones" are worthless and make the subwoofer sound worse and give it less xmax then the older Xplods.  

The only good thing about my Xplod was it could handle power.  I blew it with a 20hz test tone at 500watts RMS but thats besides the point, it took forever to blow.  I used to run it 500watts RMS daily in that enclosure.  

As for their amplifiers.....im using my old Xplod "1000watt" amp in my room hooked up to my old Ultra X-Connect 400watt PSU and it sounds great and gets pretty damn loud, louder then my home theater in the living room thats running 1,800watts total with 7.1 channel surround and im only using 3 speakers!  Ran the amp at half gain in my living room with 3 speakers hooked up and it was loud and played for over 10 hours constantly and boy was it hot, but it never stopped.


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## JlCollins005

for one thing if ur trying to say kickers dont sound good unless ur goin for the loud factor ur completely wrong that actually shows u know nothing if thats what u think


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## Dual_Corex2

JlCollins005 said:


> for one thing if ur trying to say kickers dont sound good unless ur goin for the loud factor ur completely wrong that actually shows u know nothing if thats what u think



The Comps are decent subwoofers.  But the L series is made purely for SPL.


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## Jack Bauer

So what do you think of this?  Is there anything else I need to get or change?

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9267_Pioneer+Premier+TS-W3002SPL.html#specs

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6522_Hifonics+BXi+1206D.html

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...CPC-1003+-Not+Digital+-+No+D+In+Model+--.html

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7498_Sonic+Sub+Box-+1SV12.html


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## Dual_Corex2

That looks pretty good.


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## Jack Bauer

Dual_Corex2 said:


> That looks pretty good.



Is there anything else I am missing?  That sub is 2 ohms right?  So that amp will run the sub at 900 watts at 2 ohms?  I couldnt find a 1 ohms sub but I guess that they are more expensive.  Where did you get your pioneer premier 1 ohms sub?  cause I cant find it at the sonicelectronix website.


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## heyman421

the sub is dual 2, so run it in parallel to make 1 ohm

that hifonics wont put out 1/2 of what it advertises, tho

my bxi2006d was only pushing those L7's to 143dB, which is pathetic for an advertised 2000w

and what's that enclosure even tuned to?  If you're going to use a prefabbed enclosure, i'd go sealed, as it's much harder to screw up a sealed enclosure.

And i can't say one way or the other about the pioneer, i've never heard one.

10.9mm on a "3000w" subwoofer leads me to believe that it's going to sound sloppy as hell, tho.  It's definitely a SPL sub, as the xmax is the excursion where the cone of the sub stays perfectly linear, and thus creates 0% distortion.  A subwoofer that SOUNDS GOOD, like the w7, for example, is able to travel more than 30mm in either direction linearly.


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## INTELCRAZY

I would go with that, looks to be pretty well budgeted as well.


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## Jack Bauer

heyman421 said:


> that sub is dual 2, so you run them in parallel, and it's 1 ohm



It says its 2 ohms on the website so wouldnt 1 ohms ruin the sub or am i completely missing the picture here.


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## INTELCRAZY

heyman421 said:


> that sub is dual 2, so you run them in parallel, and it's 1 ohm



What do you mean "parallel"?


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## heyman421

leeched, but it's a visual aid


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## INTELCRAZY

heyman421 said:


> leeched, but it's a visual aid



So that would make each sub run 1ohm?


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## Jack Bauer

heyman421 said:


> leeched, but it's a visual aid



I am only going to be using one sub so that wouldnt work so it would be 2ohms instead of 1 ohms right?


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## heyman421

that sub has 2 voicecoils, and each one is 2 ohms

you wire it like 2 speakers

see how this speaker has 2 sets of connections?  That pioneer has the same thing


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## Jack Bauer

heyman421 said:


> that sub has 2 voicecoils, and each one is 2 ohms
> 
> you wire it like 2 speakers
> 
> see how this speaker has 2 sets of connections?  That pioneer has the same thing



So that would make it run at 1 ohm then right?


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## heyman421

Ya


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## INTELCRAZY

heyman421 said:


> that sub has 2 voicecoils, and each one is 2 ohms
> 
> you wire it like 2 speakers
> 
> see how this speaker has 2 sets of connections?  That pioneer has the same thing



Therefore, utilizing both voice coils, correct? Each coil at one ohm?


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## heyman421

each coil's 2 ohms, so the amplifier sees 1 ohm

and if you have a DVC (dual voice coil) speaker, you HAVE to wire both coils

So a dual 2 ohm sub can be wired to either 1 ohm in parallel or 4 ohms in series.

It's to give you the most flexibility when wiring multiple sub configurations.  There's a lot of amps that are stable down to 1/2 or even 1/10 of an ohm.


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## heyman421

To the OP, don't forget about all of your installation accessories online, as well.

They can be a lot cheaper if you buy those online, while you're at it.

I got the 100' spool of 0-gauge cabling you saw in my install photos a few pages ago for $70 shipped at redorbit last summer.  That same cable is $5-10 a foot at stereo shops.

And for battery terminals, i recommend using the "Marine" screw-post battery terminals from napa for $3 a pair.  They're just as good as anything they sell at stereo shops for 10x more money, and are all copper.  Very nice.

And make sure to stock up on ring terminals, some decent speaker wire (you'll only need 10 feet, or so) a fuse, a grommet for your firewall, and RCA cables to run to the back (don't cheap out on these)


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## Jack Bauer

Ok thats cool so I have a 1200 watt amp and a 1000 watt sub would it blow the sub if it i turned it up all the way?  

And is there any way just to have this hooked up to like a tv with some speakers a dvd player or something so i just could play music off of it in my basement.  Cause I got my license taken away until the end of august so i wont have them in there until then.


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## INTELCRAZY

Dual Corex said something about taking a computer PSU and wiring the amp up with that. I am going to do that.


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## Jack Bauer

INTELCRAZY said:


> Dual Corex said something about taking a computer PSU and wiring the amp up with that. I am going to do that.



How do I do that and how would I hook it up I am a noob at this kind of stuff and instructions would be helpful.  I have a a dell 305 watt powersupply would that work.


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## heyman421

Like i said a few pages ago, that hifonics amp wont make 1/2 of what it's rated for, and subwoofers are generally underrated.

A 500w rms alpine type-r, for instance, will gladly take 1000w.  And polekat, the tech support guy from kicker on caraudioforums.com is running 2500w rms to his pair of L7 12's which are rated for 750w rms.

As for running the amp inside, why not just wait till august to buy this stuff?


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## INTELCRAZY

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6639_Kenwood+eXcelon+KFC-XW1202DVC.html#

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8515_Kenwood+KAC-9103D.html#

I was thinking of getting this for my computer, does this look okay? How would I go about wiring this up?


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## heyman421

Jack Bauer said:


> How do I do that and how would I hook it up I am a noob at this kind of stuff and instructions would be helpful.  I have a a dell 305 watt powersupply would that work.



This is not difficult math.  A 305 watt power supply is only going to supply power for a 305w amp.  And that's assuming 100% efficiency, which is impossible.

That amp's probably 60% efficient, and less at less than 100% output.


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## Jack Bauer

heyman421 said:


> Like i said a few pages ago, that hifonics amp wont make 1/2 of what it's rated for, and subwoofers are generally underrated.
> 
> A 500w rms alpine type-r, for instance, will gladly take 1000w.  And polekat, the tech support guy from kicker on caraudioforums.com is running 2500w rms to his pair of L7 12's which are rated for 750w rms.
> 
> As for running the amp inside, why not just wait till august to buy this stuff?



Are you sure that amp wont push out 1200 watts how come it wont do you have proof of that?  

Cause when I get enough money I am going to buy this stuff as soon as possible so my dad doesnt change his mind.


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## heyman421

INTELCRAZY said:


> https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6639_Kenwood+eXcelon+KFC-XW1202DVC.html#
> 
> https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8515_Kenwood+KAC-9103D.html#
> 
> I was thinking of getting this for my computer, does this look okay? How would I go about wiring this up?



Coming from a huge kenwood fan, i would advise you to steer clear of kenwood speakers.  They're amps and headunits are both great (i use both, in fact) but i've had terrible results with kenwood speakers in the past.

I use both a kenwood xxv-01d head unit, and a xxv-02A 4-channel amplifier for my components.


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## heyman421

Jack Bauer said:


> Are you sure that amp wont push out 1200 watts how come it wont do you have proof of that?
> 
> Cause when I get enough money I am going to buy this stuff as soon as possible so my dad doesnt change his mind.



Yes, i USED a hifonics bxi2006D amplifier to power my kickers, it did nowhere near rated.  

Their high-end stuff is decent, or so i've heard.  But the brutus stuff is bunk.

It might do 800-900w on a good day.

And that's assuming your car's alternator can put out the amps to power it.

Are you even sure you HAVE an extra 100A to give to that amp?  I had to put in a 240A alternator, that 0 gauge cable, and 2 extra batteries just to get that bxi2006D to hit 143dB with those kickers, which should have been a walk in the park.






Trust me, i've tried going the cheap route, and if it looks too good to be true, it is.  The hifonics are ok amps for the money, but there's a reason they're 1/3 the price of anything else watt for watt, and that's because they don't deliver.


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## INTELCRAZY

Will you compile me something? I have $300 for this.


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## Jack Bauer

heyman421 said:


> Yes, i USED a hifonics bxi2006D amplifier to power my kickers, it did nowhere near rated.
> 
> Their high-end stuff is decent, or so i've heard.  But the brutus stuff is bunk.
> 
> It might do 800-900w on a good day.
> 
> And that's assuming your car's alternator can put out the amps to power it.
> 
> Are you even sure you HAVE an extra 100A to give to that amp?  I had to put in a 240A alternator, that 0 gauge cable, and 2 extra batteries just to get that bxi2006D to hit 143dB with those kickers, which should have been a walk in the park.



Give me proof on another forum that says that amp wont do 1200 watts if it wont do that then why do they even say it.  I am getting a capacitor which should help with that.


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## heyman421

A capacitor is just a battery, don't kid yourself.

The only way to get extra amperage and sustain your voltage is by increasing the Ampere allowance from your alternator.  A capacitor does nothing but sustain voltage for a 1/20-1/10 a second it takes for the exciter relay to trigger your alternator to increase output.

Think about it, your alternator still has to charge the cap.  It's just one more strain on your electrical system.


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## Jack Bauer

heyman421 said:


> A capacitor is just a battery, don't kid yourself.
> 
> The only way to get extra amperage and sustain your voltage is by increasing the Ampere allowance from your alternator.  A capacitor does nothing but sustain voltage for a 1/20-1/10 a second it takes for the exciter relay to trigger your alternator to increase output.
> 
> Think about it, your alternator still has to charge the cap.  It's just one more strain on your electrical system.



Is it that time of the month for you or what man.  you seem to be an asshole here.  All I am is asking questions here and you are being a smartass i dont know much about this stuff thats why i am asking.


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## Dual_Corex2

heyman421 said:


> the sub is dual 2, so run it in parallel to make 1 ohm
> 
> that hifonics wont put out 1/2 of what it advertises, tho
> 
> my bxi2006d was only pushing those L7's to 143dB, which is pathetic for an advertised 2000w
> 
> and what's that enclosure even tuned to?  If you're going to use a prefabbed enclosure, i'd go sealed, as it's much harder to screw up a sealed enclosure.
> 
> And i can't say one way or the other about the pioneer, i've never heard one.
> 
> 10.9mm on a "3000w" subwoofer leads me to believe that it's going to sound sloppy as hell, tho.  It's definitely a SPL sub, as the xmax is the excursion where the cone of the sub stays perfectly linear, and thus creates 0% distortion.  A subwoofer that SOUNDS GOOD, like the w7, for example, is able to travel more than 30mm in either direction linearly.




My old Xplod had an xmax of 5mm lol.  Course even at max excursion (bottoming out) it didnt move very far.  

I can not say whether or not the Premier will indeed handle a 3000watt burp, but i do know it can handle some good power.  And what do you mean it wont put out half of what its advertised? HiFonics is one of the best brands out there for amps, that and US Amps.  

I cant say 100% that my amp is putting out 1200watts, it pry isnt due to my electrical limitation in my car, but i do know it puts out serious power...


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## Jack Bauer

Dual_Corex2 said:


> My old Xplod had an xmax of 5mm lol.  Course even at max excursion (bottoming out) it didnt move very far.
> 
> I can not say whether or not the Premier will indeed handle a 3000watt burp, but i do know it can handle some good power.  And what do you mean it wont put out half of what its advertised? HiFonics is one of the best brands out there for amps, that and US Amps.
> 
> I cant say 100% that my amp is putting out 1200watts, it pry isnt due to my electrical limitation in my car, but i do know it puts out serious power...



Do you have the same amp I am looking at getting?  If not which one do you have?  and is that the same sub that you have to?


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## heyman421

let's put it this way

see this fuse i've circled






That's an 80A fuse.  The most you can possibly pull through an 80A fuse is just under 1200w.

I blew 0 fuses during the 8 months i used that amplifier, and it's supposedly a 2,000w amplifier.


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## Dual_Corex2

heyman421 said:


> Yes, i USED a hifonics bxi2006D amplifier to power my kickers, it did nowhere near rated.
> 
> Their high-end stuff is decent, or so i've heard.  But the brutus stuff is bunk.
> 
> It might do 800-900w on a good day.
> 
> And that's assuming your car's alternator can put out the amps to power it.
> 
> Are you even sure you HAVE an extra 100A to give to that amp?  I had to put in a 240A alternator, that 0 gauge cable, and 2 extra batteries just to get that bxi2006D to hit 143dB with those kickers, which should have been a walk in the park.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trust me, i've tried going the cheap route, and if it looks too good to be true, it is.  The hifonics are ok amps for the money, but there's a reason they're 1/3 the price of anything else watt for watt, and that's because they don't deliver.




First off, you wouldnt be able to give the BXi606D 100A, it only has an 80A fuse....


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## heyman421

it's a bxi2006d.  It's supposed to make 2000w, and doesn't have a fuse.

I'm just saying, if a "2000w" hifonics can't make 1200w, there's no way a 1200w hifonics does either.


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## Jack Bauer

heyman421 said:


> let's put it this way
> 
> see this fuse i've circled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's an 80A fuse.  The most you can possibly pull through an 80A fuse is just under 1200w.
> 
> I blew 0 fuses during the 8 months i used that amplifier, and it's supposedly a 2,000w amplifier.



What is all that other stuff you have hooked up there?  Am I going to need all that stuff hooked up to it or not?


----------



## Dual_Corex2

heyman421 said:


> let's put it this way
> 
> see this fuse i've circled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's an 80A fuse.  The most you can possibly pull through an 80A fuse is just under 1200w.
> 
> I blew 0 fuses during the 8 months i used that amplifier, and it's supposedly a 2,000w amplifier.



That is incorrect.  You can pull 2000, hell you could pull 50,000watts of power assuming your amp could take the voltage(for 50,000watts you would probibly need about 500volts LOL).  Your never running JUST 12v to your amp, it usually goes up and down and when you have it cranked up it can range from 13-15v which with 80A is enough for 1200watts.  I dont know exactly what the highest voltage is that an amp will take, but i know they take higher then 12v.

Also, it has an internal power supply which will give it more juice, so it will put out a little more then it takes in.

Dont blaim the amp if you cant hit high dBs, theres MANY other factors that play.  Enclosure, the subwoofers themselves, wiring, that cap, battery, altenator, etc.

And no Jack, you wont need all that.  It looks like he has a second amp for his interior speakers which is always nice to have, a cap, cross-overs, and distribution block.


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## INTELCRAZY

Dual_Corex2 said:


> That is incorrect.  You can pull 2000, hell you could pull 50,000watts of power assuming your amp could take the voltage(for 50,000watts you would probibly need about 500volts LOL).  Your never running JUST 12v to your amp, it usually goes up and down and when you have it cranked up it can range from 13-15v which with 80A is enough for 1200watts.  I dont know exactly what the highest voltage is that an amp will take, but i know they take higher then 12v.
> 
> Also, it has an internal power supply which will give it more juice, so it will put out a little more then it takes in.



Obviously, you know way more than heyman421 does, care to explain what Jack Bauer will need?


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## heyman421

A consumer vehicle runs @ 14.4-14.7 volts, not 50,000, it's a moot point

If that amp made anywhere near rated power, i would have blown at least a single fuse in the length of time i was using it, without question.


----------



## INTELCRAZY

heyman421 said:


> A consumer vehicle runs @ 14.4-14.7 volts, not 50,000



Dude, it's called sarcasm


----------



## Dual_Corex2

heyman421 said:


> it's a bxi2006d.  It's supposed to make 2000w, and doesn't have a fuse.
> 
> I'm just saying, if a "2000w" hifonics can't make 1200w, there's no way a 1200w hifonics does either.



You dont know for a fact what kind of wattage it was producing, so just shut it, seriously.  Unless you sat there, cranked it up, hooked up some sort of meter to the wire going to the subwoofer, then you dont know.  And since you never said you did, i take it you didnt.  

And i dont think there is a meter that measures wattage.  

And we are talking about the BXi1206D, i didnt mean the 606D, i dont know why i typed that.  But the 1206D does also have an 80A fuse.


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## Dual_Corex2

INTELCRAZY said:


> Obviously, you know way more than heyman421 does, care to explain what Jack Bauer will need?



If he is looking at just a good quality system, i probibly would not recommend the SPL Premier that i have.  Its not exactly 100% quality when really pushed, there is some distortion at very high volumes, but unless you listen to your music maxed all the time, it probibly wont be a problem.  

And yes, that is the same subwoofer and amp i have now.  Im actually getting a new dual 12" enclosure to fit another Premier with a second HiFonics amp.  I have been VERY pleased with my setup, its certainly not the loudest, but it turns heads.  It sounds great at normal listening volume as well (i usually listen to my music at 30-35/50 with the subwoofer on 1/4 gain).

And i have no cap, stock alt (rated to put out 95amps).  Just 2 amps, a distribution block.  i have a 100A fuse up by my battery (im soon upgrading to a 200A alt.)

Bottom line is, HiFonics is a well known brand, and highly respected in car audio, subwoofers AND amps.  Even their low end stuff has great reviews, your actually the first person i know of that has talked down HiFonics like this.  It may have just been you had a bad amp, it happens.  All i know is mine sounds great, stable at 1 ohm full gain half bass boost, and it really pushes my Premier to its max.  

And dont go sealed on the enclosure.  Its always best to build your own, but i wouldnt just buy something that doesnt tell you what its tuned at.  For the Premier, my box is tuned at 32hz and it sounds great, its made to hit them REALLY low notes.  Flexes my windows and i even get some minor windshield flex at the right note.


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## heyman421

The only amps that are gauranteed to do rated power are CEA-2006 compliant, which are bench-tested by a 3rd party company, and verified to do the numbers that the manufacturer claims.

Unless you see a cea2006 compliancy certification, you don't know what you're getting.  Plain and simple.

There's no reason for me to bash hardware that i've personally owned and used, unless i was honestly displeased with it.  There's no reason for me to LIE to you.  You could just as easily get something else.


----------



## INTELCRAZY

heyman421 said:


> The only amps that are gauranteed to do rated power are CEA-2006 compliant, which are bench-tested by a 3rd party company, and verified to do the numbers that the manufacturer claims.
> 
> Unless you see a cea2006 compliancy certification, you don't know what you're getting.  Plain and simple.
> 
> There's no reason for me to bash hardware that i've personally owned and used, unless i was honestly displeased with it.  There's no reason for me to LIE to you.  You could just as easily get something else.



Did you just say 3rd party company? Hmm...perhaps the money under the table?

Besides, why didn't you just say that before? Instead of profiling that one amp?


----------



## heyman421

I was just trying to share some insight

i never had any problems with my hifonics, it just didn't give me the power i needed
just don't buy a 1200w hifonics if you NEED 1200w, is all

maybe step up to the 1600w one for a few extra bucks


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## Dual_Corex2

heyman421 said:


> The only amps that are gauranteed to do rated power are CEA-2006 compliant, which are bench-tested by a 3rd party company, and verified to do the numbers that the manufacturer claims.
> 
> Unless you see a cea2006 compliancy certification, you don't know what you're getting.  Plain and simple.
> 
> There's no reason for me to bash hardware that i've personally owned and used, unless i was honestly displeased with it.  There's no reason for me to LIE to you.  You could just as easily get something else.




Hmmm....My Xplod amp said it was CEA-2006 compliant, does that mean it really put out 1000watts?  lol.

To be honest, there is no TRUE official way to test car audio products, any company does it anyway they want to.  RF is known to have the most reliable ratings for their products, and even under-rated.


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## heyman421

CEA2006 means the RMS claims are valid

the "MAX" rating still means little to nothing


----------



## heyman421

Well, i gotta get off of here.

I've honestly lost all sight of what the inital conversation was about.  We can agree to disagree here.

All i'd say is maybe consider spending the money you would have spent on a capacitor to get the next amp up in the brutus line, so you're assured to have enough power, and don't have to spend a lot more on another amp if you're not happy, which is what happened with me.  Just trying to save you the trouble.


----------



## Dual_Corex2

heyman421 said:


> CEA2006 means the RMS claims are valid
> 
> the "MAX" rating still means little to nothing



Oh so then my Xplod amp was REALLY doing 500watts? lol.  Either way, i doubt it was doing anywhere near 500watts.  As it took about 7mins to blow my 300watt RMS subwoofer at a 20hz test tone with bass boost and full gain.  

Just becuz it doesnt say its CEA compliant, doesnt mean that the RMS ratings are not true.

And just becuz it says it IS CEA compliant, doesnt mean that the RMS ratings are true.

Theres too many factors that take place to get a true rating on anything.


Just to show off:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6eLMccz-EM

lol.  Thats the best video i have of my Premier.


----------



## Jack Bauer

This is what I am thinking of getting now does it look good?
I am going to get 1 for now then 2 down the road 
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9267_Pioneer+Premier+TS-W3002SPL.html

when i get the second sub ill get another amp to
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6556_Hifonics+Titan+TXi+7506.html#reviews

dual core where did you get your new enclousre at i am thinking of getting the same one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yd-mLrSVR3E

I am only going to get 1 for now that is all i can afford maybe later on this year or early next year I will be getting another one.


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## Dual_Corex2

I dont think that amp would push 2 of them very good.  It might not push one that good.  But it would be ok probibly.  

My new box i got here:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7509_Sonic+Sub+Box-+2SV12.html


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## Jack Bauer

Dual_Corex2 said:


> I dont think that amp would push 2 of them very good.  It might not push one that good.  But it would be ok probibly.
> 
> My new box i got here:
> 
> https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7509_Sonic+Sub+Box-+2SV12.html



That amp is rated for 750 watts rms why wouldnt it push that sub very well and when i get another sub i would get another amp to.


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## Dual_Corex2

Jack Bauer said:


> That amp is rated for 750 watts rms why wouldnt it push that sub very well and when i get another sub i would get another amp to.



750watts per sub might be ok.  But i got 1200 goin to mine and it pry could take 1500 fine.


----------



## Jack Bauer

Dual_Corex2 said:


> 750watts per sub might be ok.  But i got 1200 goin to mine and it pry could take 1500 fine.



wouldnt 750 watts be more than enough.  how is 1200 watts for you is it to loud or not.


----------



## Dual_Corex2

Jack Bauer said:


> wouldnt 750 watts be more than enough.  how is 1200 watts for you is it to loud or not.



It can overpower my system. Usually i dont let it (thank you on-dash gain controller), but yea its a bit much if you dont like intense bass.


----------



## Jack Bauer

Dual_Corex2 said:


> It can overpower my system. Usually i dont let it (thank you on-dash gain controller), but yea its a bit much if you dont like intense bass.



I like intense bass but i dont want to get a noise violation ticket so do you think 750 watts will be enough or should i get at least 1000 watts.


----------



## Dual_Corex2

Jack Bauer said:


> I like intense bass but i dont want to get a noise violation ticket so do you think 750 watts will be enough or should i get at least 1000 watts.



750 watts might be plenty then.  But if you dont think so, you could always take the amp back for a more powerful one.


----------



## Jack Bauer

Dual_Corex2 said:


> 750 watts might be plenty then.  But if you dont think so, you could always take the amp back for a more powerful one.



ya ill think about it.  it all depends on how much money i make this summer.  also what other stuff do i need to hook up the amp to the subs i am going to need wires and every thing else since i dont have any right now.


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## Dual_Corex2

Yea, your gonna need an amp power kit.  And id use 8 or 12 guage speaker wire, i use 8.  but there really wont be much of a difference between 8 or 12.  Since you wont be going that far with your wire, 12 should do fine, and its cheaper.  I found mine in the garage, so it was free lol.

As for the amp power kit, id suggest one that has 1 or 2 guage power wire with at least 100A fuse.


----------



## hotchevymanzach

building the box r u going to wing it or have a pro build it i have a dvc 12 off the wall name brand in a box that i had built for the intent of dragging it and i can keep up with some of the big boys mostly the ones who think they know what they r doing but ne way what r u puting it in car suv truck?? if you want an amp that will kick the crap out of you go kicker they have some awsome shyte


----------



## Dual_Corex2

hotchevymanzach said:


> building the box r u going to wing it or have a pro build it i have a dvc 12 off the wall name brand in a box that i had built for the intent of dragging it and i can keep up with some of the big boys mostly the ones who think they know what they r doing but ne way what r u puting it in car suv truck?? if you want an amp that will kick the crap out of you go kicker they have some awsome shyte



Yea, Kicker is pretty good.

JL Audio
HiFonics
RF
Precision Power
Orion
JBL 

All make some of the best amplifiers around.

Gonna throw some logos on my car.  http://www.ultimatedecals.com/w_custom.php?pic=7089

Im looking for a Premier logo instead of just Pioneer.  Ill see what i can find.  Im gonna get a huge rear window yellow reflect vinyl.


----------



## Jack Bauer

Dual_Corex2 said:


> Yea, Kicker is pretty good.
> 
> JL Audio
> HiFonics
> RF
> Precision Power
> Orion
> JBL
> 
> All make some of the best amplifiers around.
> 
> Gonna throw some logos on my car.  http://www.ultimatedecals.com/w_custom.php?pic=7089
> 
> Im looking for a Premier logo instead of just Pioneer.  Ill see what i can find.  Im gonna get a huge rear window yellow reflect vinyl.



This is what I am thinking of getting

1 of these and when i can afford another one ill get one more
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9267_Pioneer+Premier+TS-W3002SPL.html

1 of these then when i get a second sub ill get one more of these
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6336_Hifonics+BXi+1606D.html

then for the amp kits what one would i need out of all of these.  which ones the cheapest but still is good quality
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i142_0-2-gauge.html

and what companys make the best headunits out there I have this one and i hate it
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6446_Panasonic+CQ-C1303U.html

and this sub box
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7509_Sonic+Sub+Box-+2SV12.html


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## Dual_Corex2

Jack Bauer said:


> This is what I am thinking of getting
> 
> 1 of these and when i can afford another one ill get one more
> https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9267_Pioneer+Premier+TS-W3002SPL.html
> 
> 1 of these then when i get a second sub ill get one more of these
> https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6336_Hifonics+BXi+1606D.html
> 
> then for the amp kits what one would i need out of all of these.  which ones the cheapest but still is good quality
> https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i142_0-2-gauge.html
> 
> and what companys make the best headunits out there I have this one and i hate it
> https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6446_Panasonic+CQ-C1303U.html
> 
> and this sub box
> https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7509_Sonic+Sub+Box-+2SV12.html




The first amp kit on there should be fine.

And as for headunits, mines a JVC and i love it but it has a low output voltage (2v)

Pioneer makes awsome headunits, as well as Alpine.  Id recommend any of those companies.


----------



## Jack Bauer

Dual_Corex2 said:


> The first amp kit on there should be fine.
> 
> And as for headunits, mines a JVC and i love it but it has a low output voltage (2v)
> 
> Pioneer makes awsome headunits, as well as Alpine.  Id recommend any of those companies.



what does the output voltage do?  

and that first amp kit will that handle 2000 watts or so cause thats what i plan on putting in there eventually.


----------



## Dual_Corex2

Jack Bauer said:


> what does the output voltage do?
> 
> and that first amp kit will that handle 2000 watts or so cause thats what i plan on putting in there eventually.



The first amp kit will be enough.

The output voltage on headunits gives more input power to your amps, causes less distortion and overall more power.  

The higher output voltage on your headunit, the better the sound and your amps will be able to reach full potential.  

The highest iv seen is 6v.


----------



## newjacksm

Dude, I hope you didnt buy anything from the first two pages all I have seen is crap crap and more crap.. I have been into car-audio for 2 years and get all info from www.caraudioforum.com

If you want a good entry sub then go with Alpine Type R 10 or 12 inch

depending on how many subs you want 1 or 2 with one you want a 1042 with 2 you want a 1242. (so you can get 1ohm out of them)


as for Amps you will probably need between 600 (for one and 1200 for two)


And for front speakers of your car you want to get component speakers. Go with Phoenix Gold Z6.5 they are cheap and good. You will want a 250-350 2.ch amp for them


If you want more in depth info give me a PM and go to that website I suggest I post there a lot..


----------



## newjacksm

any sony stuff is bad. If you want a deck go with a Pioneer Deck or an Alpine Deck if you prefer to have your ipod hooked up...

If your gonna get a car system do it right sony shit sucks man..


----------



## newjacksm

Sorry for 3 posts

But for an amp you are going to want a Phoenix Gold Titanium or Xenon AMP/ Hifonics is good but people have problems here and there with them/ JL Audio amps/ Alpine Amps and some Kicker amps..

I own a Phoenix Gold Xenon 600 and I get 600 1-4 ohms.. I have them running on two alpine type s speakers 300watts RMS each. I should have a bigger amp for them but...  Before the alpines i had MTX 6000 subs which were 250 RMS each... 


I dont feel like spending more money on an amp but since your starting always go a little more on the amp with what your subs are rated...


----------



## Dual_Corex2

newjacksm said:


> Dude, I hope you didnt buy anything from the first two pages all I have seen is crap crap and more crap.. I have been into car-audio for 2 years and get all info from www.caraudioforum.com
> 
> If you want a good entry sub then go with Alpine Type R 10 or 12 inch
> 
> depending on how many subs you want 1 or 2 with one you want a 1042 with 2 you want a 1242. (so you can get 1ohm out of them)
> 
> 
> as for Amps you will probably need between 600 (for one and 1200 for two)
> 
> 
> And for front speakers of your car you want to get component speakers. Go with Phoenix Gold Z6.5 they are cheap and good. You will want a 250-350 2.ch amp for them
> 
> 
> If you want more in depth info give me a PM and go to that website I suggest I post there a lot..



Car Audio Forum?  Ha, figures.  I wouldnt trust that place worth anything.  Id trust my local best buy guy before them.  (i used to be a member of that forum)


----------



## newjacksm

Dual_Corex2 said:


> Car Audio Forum?  Ha, figures.  I wouldnt trust that place worth anything.  Id trust my local best buy guy before them.  (i used to be a member of that forum)



A lot of people on there are very knowladgeable about car audio I would not bash them as they have helped me understand about car audio.

If you do think a Sony XPLOAD amp is better then any 

Hifonics/Alpine/ Some PG amps and some others

then I think you have trusted your best buy car audio installer too much....


----------



## Dual_Corex2

newjacksm said:


> A lot of people on there are very knowladgeable about car audio I would not bash them as they have helped me understand about car audio.
> 
> If you do think a Sony XPLOAD amp is better then any
> 
> Hifonics/Alpine/ Some PG amps and some others
> 
> then I think you have trusted your best buy car audio installer too much....



I never saw the words "Sony" in this thread until you came along lol.  

Oh, thats right, i did show off my first system, which did contain a Sony.  But i dont remember anyone here suggesting them.

As for pheonix gold, they arnt that well known in car audio.....iv never used their products, but i would def pick Alpine, Hifonics, JL, JBL, and alot of other brands before them.


----------

